<VV> Clutch question - LONG!!

[shortle]

I had 1 where the floorboard would flex everytime I stepped on the clutch. I fixed it by welding a reinforcement in. I have also heard of the linkage under the dash becoming fatigued after many years. I hope this is helpful. Good luck and please post your findings.
Timothy Shortle in Durango Colorado
(certainly not an expert) 

-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Houston <jhouston45 at gmail.com>
>Sent: Mar 12, 2009 8:06 PM
>To: Virtual Vairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>, Seth Emerson <Sethracer at aol.com>, Harry Yarnell <hyarnell1 at earthlink.net>
>Subject: <VV> Clutch question - LONG!!
>
>I have a question for the experts ...  we changed the clutch on our Club 
>autocross car (LM 110).. and now we can't get it adjusted enough to 
>release the clutch.  It will not go into reverse (terrible grinding) and 
>if the other gears didn't have syncros, it wouldn't go there either.  
>Engine has been out twice for this problem.  First time, we decided that 
>the flywheel had been machined wrong - the difference (step?) between 
>the outer surface where the pressure plate bolts, and the surface where 
>the disk rides was .140 thou.  Measured a stock flywheel and the 
>difference was .110 thou.  So, we figured the .030 was making the 
>"space" for the disk too tight (flywheel was too "flat").  So, we 
>installed a factory stock flywheel.  Same result.  Throwout bearing is 
>flat faced (correct) and measurements are correct according to Clark's 
>tech data (also, this TO bearing was in the car and working fine 
>before).  The fork is correctly installed on the TO bearing and the 
>pivot ball on the diff.  The disk is installed correctly (short side 
>toward flywheel) and it is stock (used), and the pressure plate was in a 
>running car before.  When the pressure plate is placed on the workbench, 
>the fingers make a cone.  We have adjusted until there is NO freeplay at 
>the pedal and the clutch will still not release.  The adjustment at the 
>end of the clutch cable (Heim joint) is adjusted as far forward as it 
>can be (shortening the effective length), and the fork actuation rod is 
>adjusted to about 3/8" from the maximum (again, shortest possible 
>length).  By measurement, the end of the cross arm that the cable is 
>attached to moves about 3" when the pedal is depressed, and the shorter 
>arm connected to the fork moves 7/8" - indicating an approximate 3 to 1 
>relationship.  We are assuming that this is correct.   Anybody have any 
>suggestions/ideas/comments??  At this point we have run out of ideas.
>
>Jim Houston
>'65 Monza coupe
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