<VV> Clutch question - LONG!!

[Jim Houston]

I have a question for the experts ...  we changed the clutch on our Club 
autocross car (LM 110).. and now we can't get it adjusted enough to 
release the clutch.  It will not go into reverse (terrible grinding) and 
if the other gears didn't have syncros, it wouldn't go there either.  
Engine has been out twice for this problem.  First time, we decided that 
the flywheel had been machined wrong - the difference (step?) between 
the outer surface where the pressure plate bolts, and the surface where 
the disk rides was .140 thou.  Measured a stock flywheel and the 
difference was .110 thou.  So, we figured the .030 was making the 
"space" for the disk too tight (flywheel was too "flat").  So, we 
installed a factory stock flywheel.  Same result.  Throwout bearing is 
flat faced (correct) and measurements are correct according to Clark's 
tech data (also, this TO bearing was in the car and working fine 
before).  The fork is correctly installed on the TO bearing and the 
pivot ball on the diff.  The disk is installed correctly (short side 
toward flywheel) and it is stock (used), and the pressure plate was in a 
running car before.  When the pressure plate is placed on the workbench, 
the fingers make a cone.  We have adjusted until there is NO freeplay at 
the pedal and the clutch will still not release.  The adjustment at the 
end of the clutch cable (Heim joint) is adjusted as far forward as it 
can be (shortening the effective length), and the fork actuation rod is 
adjusted to about 3/8" from the maximum (again, shortest possible 
length).  By measurement, the end of the cross arm that the cable is 
attached to moves about 3" when the pedal is depressed, and the shorter 
arm connected to the fork moves 7/8" - indicating an approximate 3 to 1 
relationship.  We are assuming that this is correct.   Anybody have any 
suggestions/ideas/comments??  At this point we have run out of ideas.

Jim Houston
'65 Monza coupe