<VV> milky stain - confusion
Tony Underwood
tony.underwood at cox.net
Fri Jun 26 00:09:25 EDT 2009
At 04:18 AM 6/25/2009, Chris & Bill Strickland wrote:
>Okay, we have one camp saying nasty base to remove anodizing, and the
>other saying nasty acid to remove anodizing.
Alkali removes the anodizing. It will also remove some of the
aluminum under the anodizing. I'm not a fan. The nitric acid will
not remove the anodizing. It removes corrosion. That's where the
milky coloring comes from.
>Just doesn't seem like both would be right -- is there more than one
>type of anodizing?
It's an acid bath "reverse plating" process with no reactive cathode
to transfer metal to the work. An anode is formed from the aluminum
work piece itself after the positive lead of the electrodes is
attached to it and causes O2 to be drawn into the aluminum to form a
thin coating of pure aluminum oxide (not to be confused with
corrosion which is an entirely different sort of oxidation). The
process leaves behind a very hard but thin coating which is pretty
much going to look like the metal underneath, meaning that if the
work was dull the anodized coating is dull... if the work was highly
polished, the coating will be bright and shiny.
By the way:
After the anodizing process is done, the work piece needs washing to
remove any acid, then it requires boiling in fresh water for several
minutes to close the pores in the anodized coating which is initially
porous and will absorb moisture, thus starting up the corrosion
again. Incidentally, this is how anodized parts are dyed, before
they're boiled, since the porous coating absorbs dyes quite
nicely. Boil the work and the pores close up and the dye becomes
permanent. ...or, is supposed to.
>If so, which does the Corvair use?
That one.
>Anybody try clear powder or ceramic coatings after they polish their
>parts? Does it work well enough for the bother?
Yes. And yes. You MUST protect the polished aluminum with
something, a sprayed coating or anodizing unless you want it to
corrode again.
tony..
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