<VV> Running oil temp normalcy
Stephen Upham
contactsmu at sbcglobal.net
Sun Jun 7 02:35:12 EDT 2009
Easier said than done. Because of its location in the block, it is
nearly impossible to get to and removing it (if that were even
feasible) would drain the oil onto the skid plate. I get your idea,
though. Perhaps if I can locate the same sensor at the FLAPS where I
bought it, I could purchase a new one and try it that way. The main
problem with that is that I purchased it over five years ago and the
manufacturer could have made changes to the very same stock number.
It is certainly worth considering. One thing that I just though of,
I do have the Clarks ultimate pan that has the extra plug for a
sensor. If I could put in a temporary second sensor at that
location, I could test it in water first and then mount it on the pan
and test the readings on both gauges.
Thanks,
Stephen
On Jun 7, 2009, at 1:24 AM, Ron wrote:
> Calibrate the gauge with boiling water to see how accurately it's
> reading.
> RonH
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Upham"
> <contactsmu at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Virtual Vairs" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Sent: Saturday, June 06, 2009 11:15 PM
> Subject: <VV> Running oil temp normalcy
>
>
>> I have an after market temperature gauge that was manufactured to
>> measure water but has been placed in service on my Monza to measure
>> oil temperature. The gauge has no outward indication that it is a
>> water temp sensor. The sender is located in the triangular crevice
>> on the right half block above and to the right of the top of the oil
>> pan near the skid plate. I also have a dual CHT with the senders
>> mounted under spark plugs #'s 3 and 4 and the connections to the lead
>> to the cabin located in the engine compartment. I'm experiencing
>> higher than comfortable oil temperatures (265-270 as indicated by the
>> gauge) when cruising at 65-70 mph. It normally operates at about
>> 260-265 after having been driven for twenty to thirty minutes in the
>> city. The CHT never got above 250 which I understand could be
>> 90-100 degrees off although a handheld temperature sensor monitoring
>> the head temp from the wheel well usually reads very close to what is
>> on the CHT when measured while standing still (of course).
>> I took the cover off and blew out the oil cooler (back flushed with
>> pressurized air) and have just changed the oil (Brad Penn Racing Oil)
>> and a Mobil 1 filter. I am running the lower shrouds on because of
>> the fuel economy issue, but it looks like they will be coming off for
>> the summer. The belt is practically new and adjusted so that the
>> alternator fan can be moved with one finger under pressure. The
>> blower bearing is brand new. The engine seal is in place and in good
>> condition and I have Seth's plug wires and all fire wall grommets,
>> plugs and boots are new and in place. I'm not using synthetic oil
>> yet as I am within that 5-10 thousand break-in period of allowing the
>> engine gaskets to seal before attempting to use synthetic to avoid
>> leaks. I would like to have some opinions as to why it is running so
>> hot and if and how that might be dangerous to the life of the engine.
>>
>> Stephen
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