<VV> Engine Problems Downunder

[Sethracer at aol.com]

In a message dated 1/11/2009 7:48:53 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
smluther at optusnet.com.au writes:

Q1.  We have pulled out the engine to replace the bushing to the  
transmission, and the rear oil seals etc. etc. There are now NO
oil  leaks.   However, when putting back the engine my mechanic
tried  another pressure plate from a spare engine I own.  This of course
was  the later type and now we know, doesn’t fit or work.

As a result we  went back to the old pressure plate and also put on a
new clutch which I  recently purchased.  The result however is that
the clutch peddle  needs to be pushed completely down to release
and that there is a slipping  of the clutch when engaging into gear.
My mechanic discussed  putting
spacers  (washers) to reduce the space of the clutch  disc.

Perhaps I am not explaining this properly – basically I have a  slipping
engagement of the clutch between gears.  What can be  done?
 
Mark - I hope the clutch disc you installed is the "welded center" variety.  
The riveted centers are problematic for clearance. But you will usually "hear" 
 the interference. As someone else suggested, the disc might be in  
backwards. Three items need to  match in the clutch system of the Corvair.  The 
pressure plate assembly, the flywheel and the pivot ball (that's the piece  that 
screws into the face of the differential). All three of them changed over  the 
years. It sounds like you are re-using all of the same parts that you  had before 
- except for the disc, which shouldn't matter. If the disc was too  thick, as 
a new one might be, it would cause the clutch to not disengage.  That doesn't 
sound like your problem. The disc might indeed be installed  backwards and 
rubbing on something. Also, be sure and check the routing of  your clutch cable, 
making sure it is still properly routed on the pulleys. 
 


Q2.  I have installed the SOURCE electronic ignition and have  tried to get
an answer without luck to this next question.  The  ignition either can be 
adjusted
to allow the engine to ‘flutter’ at the low  end (acceleration start) or ‘
flutters’
at the top-end (at the end of  acceleration).  This is sort of a gasping for 
fuel  effect.


Mark - By adjustment, I assume you mean the timing adjustment at idle. A  
couple of notes. First, you are removing and plugging the vacuum line for the  
right side primary carb when doing your settings? This is a must do. After you  
set the timing to factory spec, you should hook the hose back up - at  the 
same time  watching the timing to see if the idle setting changes.  It should not 
move. If it does move, you will need to  spend some time  getting the car to 
idle without the vacuum port open. This is quite common. If  the car is  
idling with the vacuum advance on, opening the throttle results  in instant retard 
of the spark, making the car fall on its face (acceleration  wise).  It is 
worth working on this so throttle response will be top  notch. 
 


Anyway, my technician was wondering whether the voltage on the  ignition
should change from 12V to 6 V due to the resistor connection? (or  should it 
remain at 12 V?)  
Is this supposed to happen?  What  should / could be  checked to eliminate 
this fluttering  effect?


As someone already mentioned, there are really two separate systems being  
supplied here. One is the ignition box from The Source (it really looks  like a 
Pertronix box, but I don't know for sure) the second item is  the coil. In 
most cases, they are fed by the same power source out of  convenience. That is 
because they both live in the same area of the motor. You  can tailor the 
voltage to the needs of the specific system if you  want. The ignition box will 
probably work as well on 6-8 volts as well as  the battery supplied 12-13 volts. 
The coil might be more sensitive to the  higher voltage. Pertronix has a chart 
of coils on it's web site and a  calculation page.  
 
 _http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/chart.aspx_ 
(http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/chart.aspx) 
 
 
 
What type of coil can I use with the Ignitor™? How do I check my coils  
resistance? (12V negative ground only)
To determine if your systems coil is compatible with the Ignitor, some  
measurements should be taken prior to installation of the Ignitor. Caution…  While 
performing this test, never leave the ignition switch on for more than 30  
seconds at a time.  
Set your voltmeter to a 15 or 20-volt scale. Attach an 18 or 20 AWG jumper  
wire from the negative coil terminal to an engine ground. Attach positive (red) 
 lead of your voltmeter to the positive side of the coil, and the negative  
(black) lead to an engine ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position. 
 Now read the voltage at the positive coil terminal. Turn the ignition switch 
 off. If the voltage measured is approximately 12 volts, no resistance wire 
is  present. A typical resistance wire will provide 9 - 6 volts. 
The next step is to determine the resistance in the primary ignition. Label  
the wires attached to the coil terminals and note their appropriate location.  
Make sure that the ignition switch is off and disconnect all wires from the  
coil. Adjust your meter to the lowest ohm scale. If you are using an analog  
style meter make sure to zero the needle. 
Measure from the negative terminal to the positive terminal. Write your  
measurement down. 
Now the maximum system amperage can be determined, divide your voltage  
measurement by your coil resistance measurement. This will give you the system  
current or amperage. 
Four and six cylinder engines should not exceed 4 amps. Eight cylinder  
engines should not exceed 8 amps. If the total amperage in your system is higher  
than the amount recommended for your application, you should install a ballast  
resistor. 
Example
Voltage 12
Resistance 1.5
12 / 1.5 = 8
Total amperage 8 


I  would appreciate a posting of my questions to any and everyone that can  
possible assist
and answer.



Good Luck Mark!
 
Seth Emerson


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