<VV> 12V vs. 6V coils

Wed Aug 19 22:32:18 EDT 2009

Which brings up a question.  "12V" coils like used on our Corvairs, are 
actually designed to operate continuously at around 6V (due to use with a 
ballast resistor (wire.)) There are 12V coils which look just like our stock 
Corvair coils that ARE designed to run on 12V continuously. Of coure, there 
are also 12V coils for use with the split spade type of coil wires 
(connectors), rather than the type of end connector we have. Seth probably 
has the answers and proper terminology for the connectors.
Does anyone  have brands & part numbers for the various designations? 
Especially the 12V continuous coils?
For aftermarket coil types, I have had very good luck with MSD coils (used 
with electronic pickup, not points).

Chuck S
BBRT
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "FrankCB" <frankcb at aol.com>
To: <vair65 at sisna.com>; "virtual vairs" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: <VV> Follow Up Re: Aftermarket Coils Re: follow-up on bogging 
down,sputtering

> Mike,
>     Good point!  What you say is quite true IF you're just replacing the 
> stock coil with a low resistance aftermarket coil.  The full 12 - 14 volts 
> at the coil will undoubtedly "cook" the stock points and likely the coil 
> also.  But if the points are ALSO being replaced by an electronic device 
> of some sort, then 12 volts MAY (or may NOT) be correct.  That's why you 
> have to consider the system as a whole and follow the instructions of the 
> coil/electronic device mfr.
>     Thanks for the correction, Mike!
>     Frank "nitpicking proves I have readers" Burkhard
>
> In a message dated 08/19/09 16:46:07 Eastern Daylight Time, 
> vair65 at sisna.com writes:
> frank-not trying to nitpick or anything but your orginal post said 12-14 
> volts to the coil. using a oil filled coil (carry over from the 6 volt 
> days) i don't know of any that will surive a full 12 volts for long. 
> modern electronics might but thats another game. just a minor point so a 
> newcommer doesn't run out and do and burn up a coil-mike
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 19, 2009 at 2:28 PM, FrankCB <frankcb at aol.com> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>     Good point!  But I didn't say to ALWAYS bypass the stock ballast 
> resistance used in the stock setup.  Instead, follow the mfrs instructions 
> as to whether or not to use the ORIGINAL STOCK ballast OR to install a NEW 
> one of a certain resistance.  The point I was trying to make was to 
> consider the ENTIRE setup including all the wiring to and from the primary 
> side of the coil.  This is especially true if you're using an electronic 
> replacement of the stock ignition points.
>     Frank Burkhard
>
> In a message dated 08/17/09 22:06:50 Eastern Daylight Time, 
> vair65 at sisna.com writes:
> frank-disagree. the allison coil which i'm replacing with a msd both use 
> ballast resistors. msd uses a .8 one while the allison was more. both are 
> 45,000 volt coils-mike mann
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 6:13 PM, FrankCB <frankcb at aol.com> wrote:
>
> Dennis,
>    I agree that the stock coil should be good enough for the stock 
> (unmodified) engine. Most of the aftermarket coils are lower resistance 
> than the stock coil and therefore will TRY to flow higher-than-stock 
> current but ONLY if they have a full 12 to 14 volts present at the 
> positive terminal.  This higher current can cause significant voltage drop 
> especially if the stock resistance wire is not eliminated.  Even if the 
> resistance wire is bypassed, the higher current through the stock wire 
> from the back of the car to the front, through the old ignition switch and 
> returning back to the engine can cause significant voltage drop so that 
> the voltage at the coil + terminal is much less than 12 volts.  The coil 
> is really a transformer so it multiplies the voltage in the primary to 
> make a much higher voltage in the secondary that ignites the combustion 
> through the plugs.  But if the primary voltage at the coil + terminal is 
> way below 12 volts (due to excessive drop) then it's possib
> le the sparking voltage may actually be BELOW the normal STOCK sparking 
> voltage from the stock coil.  So it's important to make sure you have the 
> correct voltage at the coil when the engine is running no matter what coil 
> you are using..
>    Frank "sparky" Burkhard
>
>
>
> In a message dated 08/17/09 16:25:42 Eastern Daylight Time, 
> dpleau at wavecable.com writes:
> I went through three aftermarket coils in a short period of time.  One
> Pertronics and two Accel before I went back to the original.  All had the
> exact symptoms Ernie had.  That's why I suggested his problems was the 
> coil.
> All three had the right resistance both before and after they started
> causing problems and they were hooked up properly.
>
> Dennis
> _______________________________________________
> This message was sent by the VirtualVairs mailing list, all copyrights are 
> the property
> of the writer, please attribute properly. For help, 
> mailto:vv-help at corvair.org
> This list sponsored by the Corvair Society of America, 
> http://www.corvair.org/
> Post messages to: VirtualVairs at corvair.org
> Change your options: 
> http://www.vv.corvair.org/mailman/options/virtualvairs
> _______________________________________________

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.392 / Virus Database: 270.13.61/2314 - Release Date: 08/19/09 
18:06:00