<VV> '60 style screw in ball joint

[Chris & Bill Strickland]

>I know the difference between the press and the screw in type. I have a screw in type. Can it be use to press in?
>  
>

Maybe you need to clarify this question -- "Can [what] be use to press 
in?" -- Doesn't quite make good sense to me --Can you use a press to 
press it in?  You can press what ever you want, the question may be 
would it work?

I have unknowingly pressed out screw in ball joints (and then screwed in 
their replacements - successfully).   I would assume, that with adequate 
force, one could reverse the operation and press them in, but now 
knowing they are screw in, screwing them in would seem to be the way to go.

> The screw in is not really threaded. Barely a rolled in, very course shallow thread.
>

yes, that is what they are like -- is there any evidence, regardless of 
how slight, in the control arm of similar threads?  There should be.  If 
not, maybe the control arm is worn out or somebody replaced it with a 
newer one, due to say, previous collision damage with maybe a curb. 
Generally, they screw in just fine, with a large leverage and a secure 
control arm.

>Also the one I removed was a push in
>

maybe somebody made a mistake, or changed the control arm (above) -- was 
it loose in the control arm?  it should be quite tight.

>and the ball was loose in the socket.
>

sounds like it could have been worn out

>This screw in one is NOS
>

Eww,  "Nos!  Nos!"

>and feels just as loose.
>

Is it written somewhere that new parts are not also occasionally 
defective?  Sounds like yours may be, or maybe it's fake nos, or maybe 
that is why it is still around -- nobody wanted to use a bum part.

>A TRW that I have is very tight. I believe this is common.
>

Yes, it is common for a new ball joint to have a stud that feels stiff 
in the spherical joint -- most are spring loaded against a bushing, but 
with the weight of the car against that same bushing when installed, a 
loose feeling joint "can" give years of good service, especially if it 
is in fact a new joint that is correctly assembled and the internal 
spring is just weak for some reason.

I'd use the the one that feels good (stiff) for a first choice, and save 
the nos one for looking pretty on the shelf.  That way it will still be nos!

Now, generally, if one is replacing a lower ball joint, you replace them 
in pairs, like tires, brakes, or wiper blades, and I'd recommend the 
ball joints match, by brand or feel (stiffness) or appearance or type or 
something