<VV> advice for what to tune up....

Tue Apr 21 00:00:46 EDT 2009

Thanks for the note.

It is a 62' Monza 900 Convertible.  Yea the key does not have to be in.

Basically what I can tell it is the starter solenoid.  The draw is on the
larger positive battery cable that goes to the starter.  Since the starter
works fine I assume since it starts and operates correctly.

Someone mentioned a frequent problem of an heat duct shorting on the
terminals.

Thanks for all the help, Hoping to get her running next weekend.

*Brett Griffin
**Technology Designer
*brett at architechtronics.com <http://jennifer@architechtronics.com>

*main*  (425) 889.9800       hiddentech.com
*visit our blog! * hiddentech.com/blog

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On Mon, Apr 20, 2009 at 8:39 PM, Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net> wrote:

> Brett,
>
> You didn't mention what year Corvair you have. If it is a late model
> (1965-1969), you may be not reading the words associated with the key
> positions on the radio faceplate. The clue to me is "with the key in lock".
> Why would it matter if the key was even in the lock?
>
> Off on a late is the key straight up and down. Turning the key all the way
> counterclockwise puts the electrical system in the Accessory position. And
> yes, there is significant draw on the battery with the key in the accessory
> position. I have had many a new Covair driver (not necessarily the owner,
> but a borrower) leave a late model in the accessory positon and then call me
> to diagnose the dead battery!
>
> If truly inserting the key alone makes the system draw 4 amps, please give
> us more details.
>
> Frank DuVal
>
> Brett Griffin wrote:
>
>> OK,
>>
>> So I did some basic maintenance this weekend.
>>
>>
>>   - Found I have a 4 amp draw on the large positive cable with the key in
>>   lock.  Bad Starter or Coil? Installed a Quick Disconnect so I don't
>> drain
>>   the battery again. Starts fine on a good charged battery.
>>   - Discovered the generator has no output, or not enough to overcome the
>> 4
>>   amp draw.
>>   - Found a sticky throttle plate linkage, cleaned and lubricated that.
>>
>> Hoping to meet someone in the Seattle area that would be willing to help
>> me
>> get her running smooth.
>>
>> Thanks for the advice, I did order a carb rebuild kit. That will be next
>> weekend.
>>
>> *Brett Griffin
>> **Technology Designer
>> *brett at architechtronics.com <http://jennifer@architechtronics.com>
>>
>>
>> *main*  (425) 889.9800       hiddentech.com
>> *visit our blog! * hiddentech.com/blog
>>
>> Home control. Theater. Audio. Lighting. Energy Savings.
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Contact Me: [image: Linkedin] <http://www.linkedin.com/in/brettgriffin
>> >[image:
>> Twitter] <http://twitter.com/hiddentech>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 19, 2009 at 12:42 PM, shortle <shortle556 at earthlink.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> That is a great question:(what to tune up). If you are using points for
>>> your ignition make sure your point gap/dwell is correct and then your
>>> initial ignition timing is set to specs (w/ the vacuum hose disconnected
>>> and
>>> plugged going to the distributor). Then make sure your spark plugs are
>>> the
>>> proper type with proper gap and that they are clean (not fouled). If you
>>> are
>>> certain the ignition system is in proper order, then it is time to
>>> address
>>> the fuel system. A great book is Bob Helts HOW TO IDENTIFY/REBUILD
>>> CORVAIR
>>> CARBS". It is available thru vendors and even the author himself. It
>>> makes
>>> for easy reading with plenty of explanations and pictures. Strongly
>>> recommended. Of course, look for vacuum leaks. The hoses connecting the
>>> vacuum balance tube are known for leaks. Make sure carbs are tight. etc.
>>> etc. Good luck.
>>> I hope this is helpful.
>>> Timothy Shortle in Durango Colorado
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>
>>>
>>>> From: Sethracer at aol.com
>>>> Sent: Apr 18, 2009 10:05 PM
>>>> To: fly2xs at gmail.com, virtualvairs at corvair.org
>>>> Subject: <VV> advice for what to tune up....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> In a message dated 4/18/2009 7:16:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>>>> fly2xs at gmail.com writes:
>>>>
>>>> Hello  all, this is my first post to this list.
>>>> I inherited my mothers 1962 Monza  900 Convertible in November.
>>>>  Yesterday
>>>> was the first time it has been  driven in a long time.  A number of
>>>> years
>>>> ago
>>>> the entire drive train  (engine to wheel bearings) was rebuilt and there
>>>>
>>>>
>>> is
>>>
>>>
>>>> only 340 miles on the  odometer now.
>>>>
>>>> It took a bit of time but it is now running and sounds  good.  I have a
>>>> Couple of issues I am hoping to get some insight  on.
>>>>
>>>> 1. On deceleration and Idle, the engine will backfire softly. No
>>>>
>>>>
>>>  backfiring
>>>
>>>
>>>> on acceleration or maintaining speed.
>>>> 2. When the engine is  cold it will not idle by itself.
>>>> 3. Acceleration is rough except on wide  open throttle.
>>>> 4. Gen/Fan light glows during idle and is very very faint  while driving
>>>>
>>>>
>>> on
>>>
>>>
>>>> the highway.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Brett - Almost all of the above symptoms are indicators of Carb issues.
>>>> Sitting for a long time is tough on the inside of Carbs and the rest of
>>>>
>>>>
>>> the
>>>
>>>
>>>> fuel  system as well. I suppose you have cleaned out the tank and the
>>>>
>>>>
>>> lines,
>>>
>>>
>>>> so the  carbs are being supplied with enough clean gas. The Corvair carb
>>>>
>>>>
>>> is
>>>
>>>
>>>> one of the  easiest carbs to rebuild. If you pick up a couple of rebuild
>>>>
>>>>
>>> kits
>>>
>>>
>>>> and thoroughly  clean out and systematically rebuild the carbs, that is
>>>> a
>>>> good first step. Two  things that can trip up a first-timer with the
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Corvair
>>>
>>>
>>>> Carbs is setting the idle  speeds and the choke alignment. While
>>>> removing
>>>> the carbs, check to see if the  choke springs provide a good
>>>> spring-loaded
>>>> vertical thrust to the rods. It is  easy to misalign these and have them
>>>>
>>>>
>>> catch
>>>
>>>
>>>> inside the passage in the head. When  cold, those choke springs should
>>>> provide plenty of upward thrust to push the  chokes closed and raise the
>>>>
>>>>
>>> idle.
>>>
>>>
>>>> (The chokes are only pushed closed when the  throttle has been pushed
>>>>
>>>>
>>> open.)
>>>
>>>
>>>> When the motor warms up just a bit, those  springs relax and the rods
>>>> are
>>>> pulled down, unloading the chokes and dropping  the fast-idle cams away
>>>>
>>>>
>>> from
>>>
>>>
>>>> the throttle arms. Setting the idle speed, and  balancing the idle
>>>> between
>>>>
>>>>
>>> the
>>>
>>>
>>>> two carbs is a procedure that you would be best  consulting the shop
>>>> manual. It usually involves a special tool such as a vacuum  gage or
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Unisyn to
>>>
>>>
>>>> measure flow. You will need to disconnect the link from the  throttle
>>>> cross-shaft to the drivers side carb during the idle speed  balance
>>>>
>>>>
>>> setting.
>>>
>>>
>>>> Otherwise, your adjustments on one carb are fed across via the  shaft
>>>>
>>>>
>>> linkage and
>>>
>>>
>>>> tweak the other side settings. The trick is to get  both carbs passing
>>>> the
>>>> same amount of air at idle, the idle down to a  reasonable RPM - this
>>>>
>>>>
>>> depends a
>>>
>>>
>>>> bit on the transmission type - and the  engine to idle with no vacuum
>>>> feeding to the vacuum advance unit. It is a  balancing act.
>>>>
>>>> You can check the real charging voltage by measuring the voltage at the
>>>> battery during Higher RPM running, or in a pinch, on the road. There is
>>>> no
>>>> charge at idle with a generator, but the voltage should go up as the
>>>>
>>>>
>>> engine
>>>
>>>
>>>> RPM  increases. If it doesn't, start looking at the regulator or
>>>> Generator
>>>>
>>>>
>>> as
>>>
>>>
>>>> the  culprit, but always clean the battery cables well as the first
>>>> step.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Any  insight would be greatly helpful.  I am in the Seattle Area and
>>>> hope
>>>> to
>>>> see those in the area at future meet ups!
>>>> There is a great group in your Backyard (Don't run and check - I mean
>>>> figuratively).  Corsa Northwest has a history of Corvair help. And there
>>>>
>>>>
>>> is  a
>>>
>>>
>>>> great Corvair event coming up - a bit East, but worth the drive. It is
>>>> the
>>>> NorthEast Econorun.
>>>> >From their information page:
>>>> "The dates are Friday June 12th through Sunday June 14th. More
>>>> information
>>>> about the show and the Econorun is available here:
>>>> http://www.corvair.org/pdf/2009EconorunRegistration.pdf
>>>> If you can make it,  it should be quite a weekend.
>>>>
>>>> Enjoy driving that car, Brett. If it has really old tires, do a thorough
>>>> check on them before driving much.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Seth  Emerson
>>>>
>>>> C's the Day! - Corvair, Camaro, Corvette
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2
>>>>
>>>>
>>> easy
>>>
>>>
>>>> steps!
>>>> (
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220814852x1201410738/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26
>>>
>>>
>>>> hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooter419NO62)
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