<VV> carburetor problem? - Maybe

[George Jones]

Stacy, most important of all is to look for a local club. The resources
available through the membership is probably greater than anything you can
buy in a Corvair book. Next recommendation would be to join CORSA, the
national club, if you haven't done so already.

Seth is on the money with his diagnostic procedure, let us know what you
find.

George Jones
--------------------------------
Performance Corvair Group
Tidewater Corvair Club (since 1987)
Central Virginia Corvair Club (since 2006)
Corvair Society of America (CORSA)(since 1987)
'65 Monza Crown V8 Convertible
'66 Monza Coupe Custom


On Mon, Nov 24, 2008 at 12:31 AM, <Sethracer at aol.com> wrote:

>
>
> In a message dated 11/23/2008 9:01:21 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> texchem33 at yahoo.com writes:
>
> Hello.  I am hoping one of you may have some wisdom you can pass  along.
> I'm new to this Corvair thing and new to cars for that  matter but I'm
> learning
> quickly.  I recently acquired a 1965 evening  orchid monza coupe and I just
> love it.  As of lately I seem to be having  some carburetor problems.
>  (That's
> my guess anyway).  The car idles  decently but when I press on the gas it
> sort
> of "bogs down" like the engine is  being flooded.  I'm assuming this is the
> problem but am not really sure  how to go about figuring out which
> carburetor it
> is or where to go from  here.  I would greatly appreciate any advice.
> Thanks!
>
> Stacy Payne
>
>
>
>
>
> Stacy - Before you dive into the carbs, be sure your ignition timing is
> correct. If you have a timing light - (if you don't, find someone who does)
> -and
> check the timing at idle. Depending on the exact motor in the Monza, the
> timing  should be at about 12-16 degrees BTDC. If it seems stable there,
> reach down
> -  CAREFULLY - and remove the hose to the vacuum advance port on the
> distributor.  Plug the end of the hose with something like a golf tee. Now
> check to
> see if the timing has changed. If it stays the same with the hose on or off
> -
> at  idle, then you can hook the hose back up and start with the carbs. If
> the
> timing  at idle changes with the hose removed, you will need to do carb
> adjustment,  especially of the idle position screws. There should be no
> vacuum
> advance at  idle. Leave the timing light in place - Cylinder #1 or #2. Turn
> the
> motor  off. The first easy check is to see if each accelerator pump is
> working on
> both  primary carbs. After removing the air cleaner, look down the throat
> of
> the carb  and see if a little stream of fuel appears just above the cluster
> in
> the throat  of the carb, when the throttle is quickly opened. A little shot
> of
> gas  should come out when you crank the throttle open. If the engine will
> run okay, you can check this with the motor running, and the  transmission
> "OUT
> OF GEAR". Aim the timing light down the throat of the  carb as you crank
> the
> throttle open. The flash from the timing light will  "freeze" the fuel as
> it
> comes out of the discharge hole on the carb. If this  still shows nothing,
> then
> it is, indeed, time to go into the carbs. - Seth  Emerson
>
>
>