<VV> Can It Really Be That Simple?

[Frank DuVal]

If you remove the two nuts holding the master cylinder on the firewall, 
it just pulls off. There is no connection between the master cylinder 
piston and the brake pedal push rod except the rod slips into the 
piston. The boot slides off the rod to remove and slips on to install. 
Easy. Not like a Ford product with the clip under the dash.

To clarify my earlier timing statement. Check the timing as it is easy 
and quick. When doing a tune up you always set the point gap first 
(dwell) then the timing.

All belts are installed cold. gggg  But yes, it is good to recheck 
tension after a run in period. You should just be able to turn the 
generator or alternator pulley with your fingers. Too tight is not good. 
Rusty pulleys (pullies?) is common for east coat cars that sit outside 
(indoors not much of a problem), that is why it was mentioned. Rust 
chews a belt up in no time. Also if a belt sits a long time installed on 
an engine  without running, it takes a set so it runs lumpy and can come 
off easy.

Frank DuVal

Jeffrey B. Aronson wrote:

>
>I would appreciate clarification on the link between the brake pedal and 
>the master cylinder. Do they come out as a unit? Are snap ring pliers 
>needed to remove the pedal assembly from the master cylinder?
> No, I think it 
>was installed cold and the car was not run much with the new belt. It 
>simply stretched a bit.
>
>  
>