<VV> Can It Really Be That Simple

[Frank DuVal]

Yes, it is that easy. Bench bleed by screwing a hose into the outlet 
port and putting the other end into the reservoir. Some master cyliner 
replacements come with the hose and plastic adapter. Of course these 
single cylinders are easy to rebuild with a kit also. Unless the bore is 
really pitted. You won't know until you take it apart and hone it out. 
You can also cut a section of brake line long enough to screw into the 
cylinder outlet and bend it into the reservoir. Keep the reservoir 
filled and stroke it with both a series of short and deep strokes until 
no bubbles come out of the hose (tube). Place it back on the car gently 
(with the hose still in place so fluid does not leak out), remove the 
hose and quickly screw the brake line into the outlet. Crack the line 
nut while someone pushes gently on the brake pedal (catching most of the 
fluid in a rag and cleaning up any spills right away-eats paint), 
tighten the line nut while the foot is still on the pedal and that 
should be all for bleeding the brakes.

Of course, now is the time to flush the system anyway, as it probably 
has been years since the fluid was changed, so go through a normal bleed 
procedure to flush the system. Dot 3 needs to be changed every few years 
due to moisture absorbtion.

And (boy, this is never ending) do a "Hard harder" test of the brake 
system to make sure there are no steel lines ready to fail.
Step on the brake pedal and then step harder, using the steering wheel 
for leverage if necessary. This sounds destructive, but if the system is 
sound, nothing will happen. Don't be surprised if a line or more blows 
out due to rust. This is a normal tech inspection for a Corvair 
autocross. Much easire to replce a line in the driveway than after the 
thrilling ride though a red light or decending a hill.

Make sure the timing is correct to get the most power out of the engine. 
And all those other tune up things also, just check timing first-easy.

Frank DuVal

Jeffrey B. Aronson wrote:

>An island neighbor just bought her first classic car, a '63 Monza 
>convertible PG, 53,000 miles, power top, new red interior, door guards, 
>AM pushbutton radio, dealer installed emergency brake light - the works!
>
>Of course, as a car that basically sat for years, the new fan belt 
>slipped off within the first two days of driving and I got the "help!" 
>call. My reward was a 10 mile round the island drive of the car, top 
>down. It drove quite well, although I heard more clatter than I expected 
>[perhaps more sitting too long issues] and less power than I expected [I 
>have a '66 110/4 speed].
>
>The only concern was the braking system. Pressing the pedal slowed the 
>car, but if you held your foot on it, the pedal would slowly sink 
>towards the floor. After the drive, there was no fluid loss in the 
>cylinder, and the brakes never grabbed to one side, so I'm assuming 
>there's an internal leak in the master cylinder.
>
>Does this make sense? Any other possibilities?
>
>If it is the master cylinder, replacing it looks like a cinch - two nuts 
>hold it to the firewall and the brake line screws into the side near the 
>bottom. Is it really that easy to replace? What's the best way to bench 
>bleed it?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jeff Aronson
>Vinalhaven, ME 04863
>
>'66 Monza Coupe 110/4 speed
>'66 Land Rover Series II-A 88" [2]
>'80 Triumph TR-7
>
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