<VV> 4 speed adjustment questions

[ricknorris at suddenlink.net]

Ed,
The tang you describe is to align the shifter clevis with the inner tube so the left-right movement of the shihter is indexed properly. This is really important to gain reverse against the detent. As you can see the slot in the clevis shaft allows fore and aft adjustment. I would straighten the tang if possible. If it is beyond repair then the two clamps will probably be enough to hold it in place.

On the coupler clevis, I would not bother to shim the sides or bend the ears down as long as the pin fits well enough to insert the cotter pin. The condition of that pin is more important and I replace them if there is any sign of wear. A somewhat loose fit is proper for dealing with vibration and drivetrain movement. Also if the clevis is an old one check the holes in the ears for wear. You will also notice the clevis is held to the shaft by a loose fitting roll pin and set in rubber. Check the condition of that pin and the rubber. Clarks sells one with a harder rubber for a more solid feel to the shifter. I usually weld both sides of the roll pin up for a better shift feel but it increases the transfer of vibration.
Several vendors sell a really nice billit aluminum replacement for a solid connection for street or race. I have one on my track car and it works very well.  
As far as adjusting the shifter I just make sure the trans is in neutral and the shift lever is at the half way point fore and aft between 3 and 4. That's with the tang on the shift tube lined up with the slot in the clevis shaft too.

It ain't rocket science, just some finagling! 

--
Rick Norris
#36 Sunoco Corvair
www.corvairalley.com 

> When I examine the other end of the control rod, there is a tang that is 
> bent down and engages a slot in the coupler. When examining the tang 
> closely, it seem that the tang is bent to the side (clockwise when the 
> control rod is viewed by looking at the transmission end towards the 
> front of the car) a little bit. That would mean that the coupler does 
> not lineup exactly center to center and that little offset plus the 
> "loose" bushing could contribute to the problems I am experiencing. Does 
> this make sense or sound logical?. If I carefully bent the tang 
> counter-clockwise to center it in the slot, would that help?
> 
> Additionally when I use test-fit the new coupler there is some side to 
> side play (ie. the transmission rod is not the same outside diameter as 
> the space between the legs of the coupler, so if I installed some shims 
> (stainless washers) to make it a tighter fit would this also help?
> 
> Now, what would happen if I did the following:
> (a) place the transmission in neutral
> (b) measure the movement of the shift lever, front to back and side to 
> side, determined exactly where the center is, and then connect the 
> coupler, so that both the shifter and the coupler were in the same 
> relatively position (center of movement). Then when I mode the shift 
> lever directly forward, the transmission should go into first gear. Then 
> when I returned it to the neutral (center) position, and then moved if 
> to the left and forward it should go into reverse, and the same actions, 
> when the lever is moved to the right, should place the transmission in 
> 3rd or 4th. So I am would be starting from a neutral (center) position, 
> instead of from reverse (as outlined in the green manual).
> 
> Finally (and sorry for the long post and multiple questions) if I either 
> removed the tang or if bending it back to center position it broke. 
> Would not I be better able to line up everything and use and additional 
> clamp (offset 180 degrees) to secure the coupler in the rod?
> 
> Ed
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