<VV> Getting it to Idle (was: Loosing gas, brake fluid and time )

[Mikeamauro at aol.com]

"...I balanced the carbs per the service manual and also using the  Unisyn.  
It didn't help much.  I took the Monza for a drive to  see how it was 
behaving.  The idle in drive was low, so I stepped it  up a turn (360 on the screw) on 
both carbs and it idled better, but  not smoothly..."
 
Stephen:
I'm getting in late, so please excuse if I repeat. The following is stated  
assuming there are no vacuum leaks; timing is correctly set, and the engine is  
otherwise of relatively even cylinder compression and in good tune,  
electrically. With air intakes off, have you tried revving the engine and  placing 
your palm on & off the intake of each carb (several times)?  Sometimes the added 
vacuum will clear the crud out of internal passages.  Likewise, removing the 
idle mixture screws and spraying carb cleaner into the  screw holes in the carb 
bases (use the hollow plastic straw that come with the  cleaner), followed up 
with high pressure air, sometimes helps an idle issue. If  you can get the 
idle RPM smoothly down in the proper RPM (depending on the  vehicle, but 
generally 500 to 750 RPM), raw fuel, at idle, may stop  coming from the distribution 
clusters. If fuel continues to drip--even at low  RPM--then you are going to 
have to pull the carb air horns and check the floats  (for leaks) and float 
settings. Stock is 1 1/16" on most; some earlies are  different... check the 
manual. Be sure the float helper springs have been  replaced with the last 
rebuild. You mentioned using the shop manual procedure to  balance the carbs; doing 
so is "OK," but you should consider the minor  investment of an air flow 
indicating device called a Unisyn (all Corvair vendors  have them)... easier and 
more accurate than the shop manual procedure. Please  report back, and best of 
luck.
 
Mike Mauro
Of various Corvairs.   


 



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