<VV> flex plate / converter maximum torquage
djtcz at comcast.net
djtcz at comcast.net
Sat Jun 7 22:06:08 EDT 2008
snipped and bottom posted
-------------- Original message --------------
From: cfm <cfmann at yahoo.com>
Subject: <VV> dreaded flex plate bolts
To: Virtual Vairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Message-ID: <208976.90263.qm at web36805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
hi again, same issue revisited, I apologize in advance for any redundancy.
I tore into the engine shrouds and removed the front shroud again to gain access
to my loose flex plate bolts.
As some of you might recall, a month or so ago, I made this repair back then
too. The only rookie mistake I made then was not to torque properly and lack of
thread lock. Also, this car is not currently being driven daily or occasionally.
I had to come back to this issue, because after changing the oil, I started the
car and ran it up to normal operating temperature. I got a little silly with
revving it during this period and whammo, the problem resurfaced (rattling). I
new right away what happened. So here I am back at it, only this time I want to
it as right as possible. However, I am trying to understand why this may have
happened again.
It was suggested recently (through VV) that I replace the bolts because the
threads may be "stretched" or the bolts have just lost holding power. But as I study the
amount of space I have, its unlikely I will be able to take the old ones out and
replace with new. The special nut on the backside also poses a problem as if I
remove said bolt, the nut will fall and then where am I. Also when I look
closely at the nut, it appears to have a two tiered surface, leaving me to
believe that these nuts were brazed to the mounting plate adjacent to the flex
plate, is that a correct assumption?
Last, I can't seem to get my torque wrench in close enough to perform this task
correctly. The only thing I can think of during is removing the fan shroud, or
two, going by "feel" without torque wrench. In the shop manual, it calls out
30-40 ft. lbs.
Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Chris Mann
Check that spec, and the thread size. Sounds high. The bolts that hold the clutch cover (often called pressure plate) to the flywheel in a manual trans are 5/16-18, and only get 15-20 lb-ft in the 1965 chassis manual
I've torqued some other like sized fasteners up using a torque wrench, then snugged them a little more by hand to develop a feel for it. A bolt with its head in a vice, 6 or 12 flat washers and a nut would make a torque sample. Humans are not born with a "feel" for torque. I know an excellent machine tool digital-read-out technician. He picked up the vintage dirt bike hobby, and bought a CZ, a make with a well deserved reputation for stone-ax reliability. He swapped some motor parts around, and tightened his bike's magneto nut to what "felt" right to him. First race the magneto slipped on the crankshaft, and tore up the key and shaft taper.
Dan Timberlake
Westford, Massachusetts, USA
More information about the VirtualVairs
mailing list