<VV> PG rebuilding parts, video, and tips

[George Jones]

Hey Dan, where to do you find transaxles that look like that? Every one I've
ever seen resembles a large lump of coal until you start chipping away at
it.

Thanks for the link. We're getting ready for a PG rebuild tech session in
our club, so I may send the link out for members to look at what they are
about to do.

On Mon, Jul 14, 2008 at 11:52 PM, Dan & Synde <dsjkling at sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

> Hi Keith,
>
> The advice I got when I rebuilt mine from someone in the know was to try to
> get the original style "L" lip outer seals for the reverse clutch piston
> (servo) and for the high speed clutch piston(servo).  I know Clark's sells
> them.  The square cut ones that some sell don't seal as well in certain
> situations or with certain PG cases.  I just bought the kit from Clark's
> with the seals, bushings, snap rings, friction material, gaskets.  I just
> did an inspection of the low speed band and reused.  It had plenty of
> friction material left (could still see nicely defined grooves on the inner
> surface and no chunks missing).
>
> I recommend picking up an extra front pump cover seal, it's the large
> square
> cut rubber ring that fits in the edge groove of front pump cover and the
> case.  It's real easy to pinch if your not careful.  Someone at one time
> had
> used a screwdriver to pry the front pump cover off mine and when I went to
> reinstall, I didn't see the little burr left from the screwdriver on the
> edge of the case.  Took a nice little chunk out of the seal and I had to
> order another one.
>
> Check the drive pins for the rear pump to be sure they are still tightly
> installed in the planetary assembly.  If one falls out and makes it's way
> between a set of gears, it will ruin your day.  See the following for a
> picture of the planetary and pins:
>
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/81412237@N00/677720210/in/set-72157600576168240
> /
>
> You can redrill and relocate the pins if they are loose and also dress the
> pump hub that they drive.
>
> You can see my complete set of transmission pics here:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/81412237@N00/sets/72157600576168240/
>
> I got the tips to rebuild mine from Jim Davis, Bob Galli and from the Corsa
> Tech Guide.  In the Corsa Tech Guide under the section on transmissions,
> there are write-ups by Art Eller and Bob Ballew on what to look for and
> what
> to expect.  I read as much as I could and picked the brains of some of the
> Corvair elites out there before I started.  It really helped.  The PG was
> one of those uncharted territories for me that I was able to conquer.  Not
> so hard after all, actually kinda fun once I knew it wasn't going to go
> "Boing" as soon as I removed the last bolt with pieces flying in all
> directions never to be seen again.
>
> Have fun!!
>
>
>
> Dan Kling
>
> 1961 Greenbrier Deluxe, 4spd, 3.89  On the Road Again,  yeehaw :)
> 1963 Spyder, restored   4spd Saginaw
> 1967 Ultravan #299  Newest of the herd!! Almost killed me already!!
>
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/81412237@N00/sets/
> A few pictures of the Greenbrier, UltraVan, engine and tranny tear down
> with
> more to come!
>
>
> Keith said:
>
> >#2  I have seen the ad in the Communiqu? for the rebuild kit including
> exchange band.  Is this a good source or am I
> >better to order from Major Vendor.  Do I need anything else besides what
> is
> offered in this ad?
>
> >#5  I know that there was a difference between the early (145 cid) and
> late
> (164 cid) PG transmissions.  I have a '65
> >110hp engine coupled to an early FC PG.  What if any modifications do I
> need to make while I have the PG torn down or
> >will I be good the way it is?  I think I read this in the PG tips that
> Corvanatics puts out.
>
>
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-- 


George Jones
--------------------------------
Tidewater Corvair Club (since 1987)
Central Virginia Corvair Club (since 2006)
Corvair Society of America (CORSA)(since 1987)
'65 Monza Crown V8 Convertible
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2397326
'66 Monza Coupe Custom (in progress)