<VV> Corvairs are Goodguys
J1M1SH at aol.com
J1M1SH at aol.com
Wed Aug 6 18:14:35 EDT 2008
In the September Goodguys Gazzette, the monthly of the Goodguys club, there
are four, count them, four pictures of Corvairs. A 62 Lakewood, a 63 pickup
with a 305, and Mike Meyers front engine 69 with an LS1. He not only won a
Homebuilt Heaven award, but was runner up in the drag races. Never remember seing
any Corvairs in this Magazine before.
In a message dated 8/6/2008 12:00:50 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
virtualvairs-request at corvair.org writes:
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: SPARKING DAMPER and posi additive (jvhroberts at aol.com)
2. Re: Piston transplant update (Dave Keillor)
3. Re: Pitch dark is a good thing. (Frank DuVal)
4. Re: 110 jugs on a 95 block-humor (Marc Marcoulides)
5. VV - Ignition?? Pertronix?? (P.H. Raker)
6. Static Sparks at the Damper (Smitty Smith)
7. Re: Coil arcing at the pos terminal (Ernie Sanders)
8. Re: 110 jugs on a 95 block (Bryan Blackwell)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 08:42:53 -0400
From: jvhroberts at aol.com
Subject: Re: <VV> SPARKING DAMPER and posi additive
To: N2VZD at aol.com, virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <8CAC5D913F91953-978-2219 at WEBMAIL-DG15.sim.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
The stock dampers have a thin copper braid connecting the inner portion
to the outer ring. On the other hand, is there a real problem?
Perspiring minds want to know!
-----Original Message-----
From: N2VZD at aol.com
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Sent: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 7:00 am
Subject: Re: <VV> SPARKING DAMPER and posi additive
the belt composition must have something to do with it. like a
vandegraff
generator. there is a conductive paint available in spray cans at
electronic
stores. its called aquadag. it is used on the inside of plastic
computer
monitors as an rf shield, along with other uses. i used it in several
ham radio
projects over the years. its the same coating on the outside of
picture tubes.
its a gray color.
i can see that pulley sparking along with a leaky fuel pump .....maybe
the
answer to a lot of mysteries over the years...like brown rusty engine
compartments in junkyards..
ps: i found the best posi additive for me is a BG product. amsoil
also has
one listed. that along with a can of stp goes in any posi unit i work
on.
regards, tim colson
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your
budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000
000017 )
_______________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 07:56:03 -0500
From: "Dave Keillor" <dkeillor at tconcepts.com>
Subject: Re: <VV> Piston transplant update
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Message-ID:
<DB9C79ABCEBA904BB946AE4A9F84D41701FFC34C at central01.tconcepts.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I have a set of 5 Michelin X tires that are 20 years old and look like
new -- no checking or cracking of any kind. They've spent most of their
life indoors, but they are getting a bit hard, so they're now on the
spare tire pile.
Dave Keillor
-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of Ken Campbell
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 5:44 PM
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: Re: <VV> Piston transplant update
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Blackwell" <bryan at skiblack.com>
Subject: <VV> Piston transplant update
a to do list for the car as it is solid but needs all the usual
> things replaced - including the 10 year old Michelins.
>
> --Bryan
**********
Hey, if those are genuine high end Michelins, give em another 5 years or
so
... they are probably better at 10 years old ( especially if not setting
in
the sun all this time ) ... than some of the new ones NEW .
**************
Check for ultraviolet dry rot and sidewall cracking and seperation ..
then
run'em bald !!! That is why you paid the big bucks for the Dough Boy
products.
Ken Campbell, Michelin Rules in Iowaho
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_______________________________________________
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2008 09:09:40 -0400
From: Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net>
Subject: Re: <VV> Pitch dark is a good thing.
To: epssax at yahoo.com
Cc: VirtualVairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <4899A294.1080002 at cox.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
No one has mentioned this yet:
Your coil is bad. It should not have arced through the insulation of the
tower, no matter if the lug was touching the tower at the terminal area.
That black spot is carbon and is no longer an insulator.
Cutting the lug short is a short term solution. The spot will grow and
fail again.
Frank DuVal
Ernie Sanders wrote:
>My '66 Monza 110, PG, Convertible has been missing or hesitating since I
bought it totally restored. The PO had the same problem. Carbs redone, wires,
ect. ect.....Carbs have been apart several times looking for the problem.
>Well, a friend thought I needed to replace sparkplug wires. I remembered
as a kid looking at leaky wires in the dark and they put on quite a light
show. I pulled the '66 into the barn and took a look. No spark plug wires were
arcing but I saw a faint glow around the pos terminal of the coil. Turns out
the slide-in ignition wire terminal was TOO LONG. It was almost touching
the coil housing and was arcing and getting brighter inder accelleration. I
trimmed the terminal off a little and took it out for a spin--problem cured.
6 years after restoration, this very nice Marina Blue Corvair runs as good as
it looks. Ernie
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>of the writer, please attribute properly. For help,
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>This list sponsored by the Corvair Society of America,
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>Post messages to: VirtualVairs at corvair.org
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> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 06:21:36 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
From: Marc Marcoulides <hharpo at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: <VV> 110 jugs on a 95 block-humor
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID:
<25606796.1218028896853.JavaMail.root at elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Harry, did you say those smog pistons were "doomed"
-----Original Message-----
>From: Harry Yarnell <hyarnell1 at earthlink.net>
>Sent: Aug 6, 2008 5:20 AM
>To: Jonathan Lawler <computerwhiz31 at gmail.com>, virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Subject: Re: <VV> 110 jugs on a 95 block
>
>Jugs and pistons for the late model are all the same. Other than latelate
>smogs (pistons are 'domed').
>Horsepower differences are in the cam and heads.
>
>Harry Yarnell
>Perryman garage and orphanage
>Perryman, MD
>hyarnell1 at earthlink.net
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jonathan Lawler" <computerwhiz31 at gmail.com>
>To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
>Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 7:13 AM
>Subject: <VV> 110 jugs on a 95 block
>
>
>> hey y'all. i'm rebuilding the enigne in my 1966 corvair. it's a stock 95.
>> however, i have a 110 out of a 95 monza that i had ripped down. i was
>> wondering if i could use the cylinder jugs from the 110 and put them on
>> the
>> 95 block. if the jugs were the same then i could use 95 pistons and rods
>> when i buy a new set, right? or can i go ahead and buy 110 pistons and
>> bring
>> the horsepower up a little bit. i'd like to keep the stock engine/block,
>> but
>> more horsepower is always a good thing. also, is the crankshaft the same
>> on
>> both engines, or was that changed also? how did GM get that extra 15
>> horsepower from the 95 and turn it into a 110?
>>
>> --
>> -jon
>> _______________________________________________
>> This message was sent by the VirtualVairs mailing list, all copyrights
are
>> the property
>> of the writer, please attribute properly. For help,
>> mailto:vv-help at corvair.org
>> This list sponsored by the Corvair Society of America,
>> http://www.corvair.org/
>> Post messages to: VirtualVairs at corvair.org
>> Change your options:
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>> _______________________________________________
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
>This message was sent by the VirtualVairs mailing list, all copyrights are
the property
>of the writer, please attribute properly. For help,
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>This list sponsored by the Corvair Society of America,
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>Post messages to: VirtualVairs at corvair.org
>Change your options: http://www.vv.corvair.org/mailman/options/virtualvairs
> _______________________________________________
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 06:44:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: "P.H. Raker" <n556p at yahoo.com>
Subject: <VV> VV - Ignition?? Pertronix??
To: djtcz at comcast.net
Cc: Virtual Vairs <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Message-ID: <607655.18683.qm at web33203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Dan,
You're correct about how the Pertronix mounts. I had thought about that as
a possible problem. I don't have a timing light so haven't done the check as
you suggest. I did, however, remove the "points" plate and checked the
centrifugal advance weights. There is some wear, but all moves (and returns)
smoothly through the full range of motion. There is no rusty, gummy, or nasty
in this distributor, as far as I can determine.
I also checked the vacuum advance. It works as it's supposed to. Next
suggestion??
Phil
> Doesn't the pertonix module mount to the breaker point plate,
> which is moved by the original centifugal/vacuum advance
> mechanisms? What if the centrifugal advance weights, springs
> and pins were all rusty, gummy and nasty, so once the weights
> flung out they might not feel like retracting when the rpms
> dropped?
>
> I'd probably watch with a timing light while revving the motor
> in neutral several times to 3 or 4krpm and back to idle. If
> there was any hitchiness I'd disassemble and clean the cent adv
> mechanism. I would not be surprised to find things loose and
> worn.
>
> Dan Timberlake
>
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 07:31:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Smitty Smith <vairologist at verizon.net>
Subject: <VV> Static Sparks at the Damper
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <517605.16266.qm at web84215.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
From: "J R Read_HML"
,
I like that idea. Will also provide a check (multiple) of any slippage of
the HB.
Later, JR
----------------------------------------------
Smitty Says: Once was enough for me to have a failing damper slice into the
oil filter. Ever since then I have used a formed flat strap bolted to the
puller holes with the ends extending out and lightly touching the outer ring.
No arcing, no sparking and damper loss prevention all in one.
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 08:38:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ernie Sanders <epssax at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: <VV> Coil arcing at the pos terminal
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <750365.75925.qm at web51701.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
In regards to my having a bad coil, I think my situation was perfectly
normal. I had a hot wire seeking ground. Does the coil have a grounded housing?
My hot wire was barely rubbing the top of the housing surrounding the two
terminal posts. I would think that the coil is mounted to the body and should
be treated as grounded? I may be wrong. Ernie
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 11:48:32 -0400
From: Bryan Blackwell <bryan at skiblack.com>
Subject: Re: <VV> 110 jugs on a 95 block
To: "Jonathan Lawler" <computerwhiz31 at gmail.com>
Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <1D77359F-8C39-4199-B6C1-81231C43CDE4 at skiblack.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
Pistons, barrels, and rods are the same on all the '65 up, non-smog
engines. Cranks are the same for 95 and 110 engines. The 110 made
more power than a 95 because of the cam and heads (more lift and
duration, more compression).
A few other comments - I'd also consider having the seats done, and
definitely de-flash the heads. You can make your 95 effectively a
110 by swapping the cam and having the 95 heads milled. You should
also use the 110 distributor if you do this.
More head info at http://autoxer.skiblack.com/heads.html
--Bryan
On Aug 6, 2008, at 7:13 AM, Jonathan Lawler wrote:
> hey y'all. i'm rebuilding the enigne in my 1966 corvair. it's a
> stock 95.
> however, i have a 110 out of a 95 monza that i had ripped down. i was
> wondering if i could use the cylinder jugs from the 110 and put
> them on the
> 95 block. if the jugs were the same then i could use 95 pistons and
> rods
> when i buy a new set, right? or can i go ahead and buy 110 pistons
> and bring
> the horsepower up a little bit. i'd like to keep the stock engine/
> block, but
> more horsepower is always a good thing. also, is the crankshaft the
> same on
> both engines, or was that changed also? how did GM get that extra 15
> horsepower from the 95 and turn it into a 110?
------------------------------
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This list sponsored by the Corvair Society of America,
http://www.corvair.org/
VirtualVairs at corvair.org
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End of VirtualVairs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 17
********************************************
**************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget?
Read reviews on AOL Autos.
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
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