<VV> fuel tank cleansing

[chris c]

When I dried out my tank I hooked a muffin fan from a PC power supply up 
to the tank opening and let it run air threw it for a few days.  Duck 
taped the sucker too it and connected it to my battery charger on 6 volts. 

Harry Yarnell wrote:
> I would leave the tank to dry for at least a week, NOT resting in its 
> installed position. You will be amazed at how 'fluid' a semi-dry thick 
> coating can be. I'd rather have it 'pool' elsewere so the gauge float 
> doesn't stick to the coating.
>
> harry yarnell
> Poohbah of Perryman
> perryman garage and orphanage
> hyarnell1 at earthlink.net
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "cfm" <cfmann at yahoo.com>
> To: <dsjkling at sbcglobal.net>; "Virtual Vairs Submission" 
> <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 12:21 PM
> Subject: Re: <VV> fuel tank cleansing
>
>
>   
>> thanks dan, I called POR-15 customer service too, and essentially went 
>> ahead without repeating the Marine Clean step, leap of faith.
>> I coated the tank last night. It went "OK", I was a little frustrated with 
>> the ability to drain the tank, to avoid the "puddling" phenomena, but 
>> managed by turning the tank every few minutes until the "ooze" hardened 
>> up, hence avoiding the puddling.
>> I will say that it coated well, and the rust had been encapsulated with 
>> the POR. Again I wonder if I should double coat it, since I still have 
>> half a quart leftover? Maybe I'll save it for the other car...
>> Anywho, onward, to the reinstallation of, lets hope I can get her on the 
>> road soon.
>>
>> Chris "can't afford a new tank" Mann
>>
>>
>> Dan & Synde <dsjkling at sbcglobal.net> wrote: Hi Chris,
>>
>> It's a 3 step process.  First, wash the tank with the Marine Clean a 
>> couple
>> of times to remove sludge and varnish, not rust.  You're probably okay 
>> with
>> just a single wash if the tank wasn't really funky with varnish.  Second,
>> coat the tank with "Metal Ready" to etch, clean, convert the rust and 
>> leave
>> a zinc phosphate coating, rinse well with water and dry.  If there is 
>> still
>> some rust in the tank, as long as it is firm, don't worry about it the 
>> next
>> step will take care of that.  Finally, when the tank is dry, apply the
>> sealer which encapsulates the rust and prevents air and moisture from
>> getting to it.  That's how POR15 works, not by converting rust but by
>> encapsulating it so it can't breath.  It's not porous.
>>
>> It'll work, trust me!!  Stuff is great.
>>
>> Dan Kling
>>
>> 1961 Greenbrier Deluxe, 4spd, 3.89  On the Road Again,  yeehaw :)
>> 1963 Spyder, restored   4spd Saginaw
>> 1967 Ultravan #299  Newest of the herd!! Almost killed me already!!
>>
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/81412237@N00/sets/
>> A few pictures of the Greenbrier, UltraVan, engine and tranny tear down 
>> with
>> more to come!
>>
>> Chris said
>>     
>>> However, I was being skimpy and only bought one quart of the Marine Clean,
>>>       
>> thus only able to flush once. >Upon inspecting the tank, I still have
>> visible surface rust, but its nothing like the "crunchy" rust that >was in
>> there prior to using Marine Clean.  I have this inclination to "rinse and
>> repeat" this first step, >but am out of Marine Clean, and hate to wait and
>> spend more money if I don't have too.
>>
>>
>>
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>
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