<VV> Unsafe at NO speed (elevating your Corvair) - long

[Dale Dewald]

At 09:06 9/22/07 -0400, Chris Mann wrote:

>Although someday I would like to get a professional hoist; right now, I 
>thought I would ask all of you how to elevate or jack up your cars with 
>you run-of-the mill floor jacks, and feel safe about it.

I still use a 25-year-old Sears floor jack, pretty run-of-the mill.

>I seem to scratch my head a bit when I jack up the car at the proper 
>points and then attempt to switch to a tripod jack so that I may move on 
>to the next corner. The clearance between the floor jack at tripod jack is 
>always so tight, especially when working in the rear of the car at aiming 
>for that "right spot".

You did not state if your question regards the early or late model 
car.  The following pertains to our LM's.  On FC's there is a sufficient 
frame rail built into the body so that the jack can be placed a bit forward 
to allow room for transfer to the jack stand.

The rocker panels are the main structural element of the car's unit 
body.  They are strong enough to support the car but not thick enough to 
resist the point application of force from a jack.  Therefore I have a 
couple of load spreading 12" long 2X4 blocks that are chamfered with a 10 
degree cut on a table saw.  They lay in the saddle of the floor jack and 
fit nicely against the bottom of the rocker panel.  I place the jack under 
the rocker about 12-14" ahead of the rear wheel well--as close as practical 
to the correct jacking point.  I proceed to lift with the jack handle about 
30 degrees aft of perpendicular to the car and have just enough space to 
fit my jack stands under the reinforced "pocket" lifting point described in 
the shop manual. I also use a small block of wood on top of the stand (as 
needed depending on the shape of your stands).

Often times I will jack only one side of the car if that is all I need to 
make repairs.  The front end of the car will come up when the rear is 
lifted, so it is a simple matter to place two jack stands, one front one 
rear, and get to work.  If the car is lifted is lifted way up on one side, 
the repairs can often be made while sitting (much easier on the back and 
neck) instead of rolling around on a creeper.

If I need the rear of the car lifted up high (e.g. powertrain removal)  I 
will jack up one side about 2/3 the way, place a stand, go to the other 
side and jack to the needed height, place a second stand, then return to 
the first side to level the car.

>The front is easier to deal with because you can jack on the crossmember 
>and land to jacks on either side. Then again, maybe I shouldn't jack there?

I see no reason not to jack the light front end of the Corvair under the 
crossmember.

>And to add to all of this, what about the road racers, and more mobile 
>(emergency) jacking situations, how to you handle 'on-the-spot' or 'in-the 
>field' jacking?

It helps to keep few small blocks of wood; modified 2X4's, short 4X4's, 
small pieces of 3/4" plywood, etc hidden in the trunk for just these 
occasions. Jacking pads are often welded onto a dedicated race car so that 
tire changes, etc can be done quickly.

Dale Dewald
Hancock, MI