<VV> Moving forward on the '65 hardtop repair and repainting

[Tony Underwood]

At 09:28 PM 9/12/2007, Stephen Upham wrote:
>         I've located a '66 Corsa in a junkyard that will be a 
> suitable donor
>for the repair of my '65 hardtop.  I will need to cut the right side
>fender and front clip (area behind the bumper) all the way to the
>seam above the lights on the driver's side.  I may consider taking
>the left fender, too, if it doesn't add too much to the price so that
>the body shop can cut exactly where they want.  I have a couple of
>questions.  First, they will charge $50 to do the cutting and move
>the parts to the front of the lot.  That sounds reasonable IF they
>know what they are doing, but that is not a given and my instincts
>tell me that I should at least be there to direct the cutting.


Absolutely.  For 50 bucks, you should be able to tell them exactly 
where to cut, seeing as how it's likely the guy with the smokewrench 
has no idea how a Corvair was put together and is likely to slice the 
wrong place.   Butt-welding fender sheet metal together is acceptable 
but cosmetically challenging.


>         If I were to try to do it myself (never done any heavy body cutting
>before on ANY car) how hard would this be on a scale of one to ten,
>and what would I need to accomplish it?


It's a good idea to cut alongside the fender spot welds through the 
lower A-pillar, which allows your bodyman to trim off the flash metal 
leaving an intact front fender lip-edge which can then be 
re-spot-welded or MIG'ed back into place just like the original, 
depending on the bodyman's choice.

The fender is also leaded in place just below the windshield back a 
few inches from the antenna mount hole.   It's not hard to melt this 
lead and simply pull the fender away from the car's cowl sheet metal 
AFTER the other spot welds securing the fender have been 
addressed.  Do the lead seam last.  The fender well in the trunk is 
also attached to the fender via a bracket... if possible, cut the 
fender well around the bracket (thus saving the bracket) and let the 
bodyman trim off the flash, which leaves him a good (unbent) bracket 
to work with.   The fender headlite bucket perimeter is brazed to the 
front cowl panel...  low heat torch will melt the brazing and allow 
the joint to simply pull apart easily after cutting the other spot 
welded areas loose which gives you wiggle room to pull the joint 
apart after melting the brass.   Lower areas below and alongside the 
turn signal lite should be cut outside the fender spot welds, taking 
a little of the cowl with the fender, again leaving the flash for the 
bodyman to trim off etc.   Likewise the wheel well lip, cut inside 
the lip through the wheel well, leave the flash for removal later 
when it's easy to get to with the fender off the car.

You may well have to show some ingenuity when cutting the fender 
loose in the area of the dogleg between the lower door jamb and the 
rocker... it gets a bit cramped and complicated in that area but it's 
doable.   Your bodyman may decide to cut the provided repair-part 
fender and do a buttweld in this area rather than try to work some 
welds back where the factory originally put them...unless of course 
he's *very* good and doesn't mind pulling carpet and vents and such 
and poking around blind inside the fender dogleg/airvent 
area.   Still, try to cut the body of the car and not any of the 
fender itself.

The purpose is to end up with a complete intact fender that the 
bodyman won't have to modify or correct in order to make it fit your car.

>I thought of cutting right
>below the windshield, along the wheel well inside the trunk, along
>the floor of the trunk, and back along the wheel well to the
>windshield.

You shouldn't have to remove the wheel well unless you're really 
dedicated.  Even if it's kinked, the wheel well area on your Corvair 
is pretty easy to straighten on the car and shouldn't require 
replacement.   You *can* take the wheel well of the donor car still 
attached to the fender if you want to...  it's your call; ask your 
bodyman what he'd like.

Remember that the wheel well sheet metal junctions provide a fair 
amount of structural strength to the front of the car, so if I had my 
'druthers I'd not cut up the wheel well.   It does have a *Bunch* of 
welds holding it in the car.
Again, consult your bodyman as to what he wants.



>I know that I would have to be extremely careful not to
>cut near the gas tank,


If the cutter knows what he's doing, there's no issue.   You 
shouldn't need to cut anywhere that close to the tank in any event.


>but I don't know what kinds of other problem
>areas I would be coming close to.
>         The car also has an intact windshield minus the trim that should be
>fairly easily removed (tricks to remove would be appreciated).


Depending on condition of the tar rope seal, it may well come out by 
simply pushing from inside.   BTDT a couple of times in junkyard 
'Vairs that had been sitting there a while, especially if the 
windshield channel is rusty.  However:

If not...  a couple of pieces of broom handle or similar, with some 
brown baling twine tied to them makes an effective tar rope 
saw.   CAREFULLY poke a hole in the most accessible area of the 
existing tar rope seal and fish the twine through the hole, then tie 
it to the handles.   Take a buddy with you because he's gonna be 
wielding one of the handles.  Start sawing the twine through the tar 
rope, spraying WD-40 on things as you go.  It weeps under the tar 
rope and helps loosen things.   You might have to replace the twine 
if you get too ambitious.

I've done this often, always works out well.   Don't skimp on the 
WD-40... if the existing tar rope is still viable, it's gonna try to 
reseal itself behind you as you work through it.   Keep it 
soaked.   The windshield should come out fairly easily when you 
finish sawing your way around the seal... do NOT force it.   If it's 
sticking somewhere, go back and saw again.   It will come out.  Use 
TWO PEOPLE to lift the windshield out of the frame and lift it 
straight out, perpendicular to the frame... do NOT tip it and try to 
lever it out of the frame channel.  It WILL crack.

Expect to make a mess.


>also has a 140 that is more than likely frozen up (will take a wrench
>to check for sure Saturday) although it doesn't look too bad and has
>all of the carbs and air cleaner cover.  What would be a cheap offer
>on the engine?


Ask the guy if he'd take 100 bucks, as-is (after finding out if it 
still turns).   Even if it's stuck (seized rod bearing?) it could 
still be a good core for overhaul.   The carbs and linkage are likely 
worth 100 bucks but don't tell them that.   Likewise the heads, even 
if one has a seat out.   With some luck you could get the clutch and 
flywheel with it.

Of course, if the crankcase has RB stamped on it, the engine is 
likely original and thus should have one of those damned expensive 
thermistors in the driver side head, which could likely be sold for a 
pleasantly satisfying sum.

As-is complete, if he won't take 100, ask what he *would* take... 
then barter.   If it turns without hanging up, it's likely worth 
several hundred bucks as-is, easy.   Stuck, a hundred bucks less... 
fair market value.   if you can get it for 100  bucks take it and run 
madly away.   Hell, 200 bucks would still be a smoking deal but do 
some bickering.  After all, you're buying other parts off the car; he 
should cut you a deal.

The transaxle in that car, seeing as how it's a Corsa, is likely a 
3.55 Posi with any luck at all.   It's probably worth a buck or two 
as well and seeing as how it's a '66, it should have a "corporate" 
Saginaw gearbox.   Around here, one of those in decent shape will 
bring 100 bucks or more.


>Although I wouldn't be interested, it has a factory
>condensor and compressor.

Condenser and compressor?   Ask Mark what they're worth.   I've never 
had a 'Vair with A/C...

Before you leave it, check to see if it has an intact correct rear 
air grill...  :)   Those aluminum inserts will bring a few bucks at a 
swap meet too.

Odd... one does not often see a Corsa in a junkyard, especially one 
that's fairly complete like this one.   Maybe you should ask what the 
guy would take for the whole car, if you have somewhere to part it 
out.   I'd bet you could sell a lot of what's on it here on the list.


tony..