<VV> 66 Monza Electrical question

[shortle]

And of course, be sure to use GOOD parts. My brother worked at a large chain that sold car batteries. He was instructed by management to warranty a bad battery, then take the replaced unit and recharge it, then put such battery back onto the shelf for future sales.Certainly makes one suspect to purchase anything NEW. And depending on where you are located, there may be Corvair shops located near you. And of course club membership (national and/or local) can be very helpful.Be careful about electrical specialty shops though I am sure some are very good. I would install a new fan belt as a minimum if my daughter was to drive a corvair and teach her how to do basic simple checks (checking fluid levels, tire pressures, etc.).Hope this helps. That is a great car!
Timothy Shortle in Durango,Colorado.
1963 Rampside
1965 Monza/Corsa convertible
1969 Monza Convertible
1966 Corsa coupe (rusty)
1962 Rampside (parts only)  

-----Original Message-----
>From: Frank DuVal <corvairduval at cox.net>
>Sent: Nov 25, 2007 8:55 AM
>To: Shari Hebrink <shamo at anvilcom.com>
>Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Subject: Re: <VV> 66 Monza Electrical question
>
>The charging system on a late model Corvair is simple compared to the 
>new cars with computer controlled alternators. The stock system has two 
>parts, the alternator and the voltage regulator. To test easily you need 
>a digital voltmeter (DVM) or a volt-ohm-meter with a scale that you can 
>read the difference between 12.6 volts and 13.5 volts. Even a $5 Harbor 
>Freight  DVM will work here.
>
>To "calibrate" the meter, measure the battery voltage (engine off, key 
>off) of another car that is charging fine. This reading should be 12.6 
>volts, but does vary a few tenths. Now start the car and measure the 
>battery voltage while the engine is running. This charging voltage can 
>be anywhere between 13.5 and 15 volts depending on state of charge of 
>the battery and other factors not important here. Now you know the two 
>correct readings on your voltmeter, even if they are not 12.6 and 13.5+.
>
>Now measure the same two readings on the Corvair in question. If the 
>engine off reading is less than the "control" car, the battery needs 
>charging. If the car does start, and the engine running reading is less 
>than 13.5 volts (as shown on the "control" car), take a jumper wire and 
>touch the F terminal of the alternator to the + terminal of the battery. 
>The voltmeter should now read 13.5 + volts if the alternator is good and 
>the voltage regulator is bad. If the reading is still low, the 
>alternator is bad.
>
>As a previous poster said, a lot of FLAPS will do this test for free. 
>That is even cheaper than a $5 meter. And faster if mail order is involved.
>
>Frank DuVal
>
>Shari Hebrink wrote:
>
>>My daughter's 66 Monza Coupe (110 HP) has an electrical problem.  She has
>>had this car about three months.  I replaced the battery last month after it
>>tested completely dead at the FLAPS.  This weekend, the new battery is not
>>charging or else not holding a charge.  It barely turns the engine over.
>>Any suggestions where I should start looking for the problem?  I presume the
>>alternator (or is it a generator?) would be the first thing to check.  Next,
>>I suppose would be the voltage regulator.  If these both check out okay,
>>does it suggest that there is a short somewhere that is draining the battery
>>when the ignition is off?
>> 
>>Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!  Electrical
>>problems always leave me confused!
>> 
>>Many thanks,
>>Jedd
>>
>>  
>>
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