Fw: <VV> Rear Alignment Question

[Andy Clark]

    Oh, I forgot. Do ALL the alignment adjustments with the inner bracket
for the intermediate (stabilizer) rods loose at the trans cross-member.
Tighten these bolts the very last thing you do.

Andy Clark
Camano Island, WA.
1966 140/4 Monza Sedan
1966 140/4 Yenko Clone
1966 180/4 Cord 8/10 #60
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andy Clark" <slowboat at mindspring.com>
To: "Grant Young" <gyoungwolf at earthlink.net>; <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: <VV> Rear Alignment Question


> Grant, you can't get a decent alignment without doing some kind of
> measuring. Either with an alignment machine or by strapping a straight
piece
> of wood or metal horizontally across the rear tires and measuring the
> difference in tire-to-tire width between the front and back of the tire
> (toe -in). Camber can be approximately with one of those degreed level
> gauges available at your local hardware store. It's use does require that
> the car be on a level surface before making angle measurements, however.
>
> As an example of how far off the factory marks can be, after doing the
sedan
> on my Alemite alignment machine, the toe for each wheel is 1/8inch in.
> However, the marks at the torque arm-to-fender interface are:
>         1/2 mark to the left of the center mark on the right side, and one
> mark to the right on the left side.
>
> If I had set both to the center mark, the car would have crabbed down the
> road. What I'm saying is that the alignment marks are just a rough guide,
> and should not be used as absolute indicators of the wheel(s) true
> alignment.
>
> My camber is set using Lon's heim-jointed lower links, so the method used
> there is of no use to you.
>
> You say that your left side camber is very negative. This would certainly
> cause the left side to be lower, but I don't know about 2-3 inches worth.
> Anyway, adjust it to the desired setting via the eccentric bolt and if
that
> raises that side of the car to a satisfactory height, be done. The
important
> thing is the alignment, not where the marks end up.
>
> Oh........and do the camber adjustment first and THEN the toe-in.
>
> HTH
>
> Andy Clark
> Camano Island, WA.
> 1966 140/4 Monza Sedan
> 1966 140/4 Yenko Clone
> 1966 180/4 Cord 8/10 #60
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Grant Young" <gyoungwolf at earthlink.net>
> To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
> Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 10:13 AM
> Subject: <VV> Rear Alignment Question
>
>
> I thought I would get some input before screwing with this issue any more.
I
> have installed all new nylon bushings in the rear suspension of a 1965
> convertible (and a new motor mount). I set the alignment marks for the
outer
> strut eccentrics to the top center mark on the torque arms, and the torque
> arms are both centered to the mark on the fender mounting area. I
tightened
> the stabilizer rods once everything was aligned and installed new springs.
I
> went by the manual. The right side looks fine, but the left side tire is
too
> far in at the top (camber is way off) as if it were loaded down (this is
> after driving and letting everything settle). It is about 2-3" lower in
the
> rear on the driver side. There is no accident damage that I can see. I can
> adjust it enough with the bolt by turning it about half way around ccw,
but
> am wondering when I can tell if it is the same on both sides other than
> sighting it in and measuring the fender height, and why it might be so far
> off on one side with everything new?
> Thanks,
> Grant
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