<VV> Rear Alignment Question
Andy Clark
slowboat at mindspring.com
Fri Jul 13 14:13:10 EDT 2007
Grant, you can't get a decent alignment without doing some kind of
measuring. Either with an alignment machine or by strapping a straight piece
of wood or metal horizontally across the rear tires and measuring the
difference in tire-to-tire width between the front and back of the tire
(toe -in). Camber can be approximately with one of those degreed level
gauges available at your local hardware store. It's use does require that
the car be on a level surface before making angle measurements, however.
As an example of how far off the factory marks can be, after doing the sedan
on my Alemite alignment machine, the toe for each wheel is 1/8inch in.
However, the marks at the torque arm-to-fender interface are:
1/2 mark to the left of the center mark on the right side, and one
mark to the right on the left side.
If I had set both to the center mark, the car would have crabbed down the
road. What I'm saying is that the alignment marks are just a rough guide,
and should not be used as absolute indicators of the wheel(s) true
alignment.
My camber is set using Lon's heim-jointed lower links, so the method used
there is of no use to you.
You say that your left side camber is very negative. This would certainly
cause the left side to be lower, but I don't know about 2-3 inches worth.
Anyway, adjust it to the desired setting via the eccentric bolt and if that
raises that side of the car to a satisfactory height, be done. The important
thing is the alignment, not where the marks end up.
Oh........and do the camber adjustment first and THEN the toe-in.
HTH
Andy Clark
Camano Island, WA.
1966 140/4 Monza Sedan
1966 140/4 Yenko Clone
1966 180/4 Cord 8/10 #60
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Young" <gyoungwolf at earthlink.net>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 10:13 AM
Subject: <VV> Rear Alignment Question
I thought I would get some input before screwing with this issue any more. I
have installed all new nylon bushings in the rear suspension of a 1965
convertible (and a new motor mount). I set the alignment marks for the outer
strut eccentrics to the top center mark on the torque arms, and the torque
arms are both centered to the mark on the fender mounting area. I tightened
the stabilizer rods once everything was aligned and installed new springs. I
went by the manual. The right side looks fine, but the left side tire is too
far in at the top (camber is way off) as if it were loaded down (this is
after driving and letting everything settle). It is about 2-3" lower in the
rear on the driver side. There is no accident damage that I can see. I can
adjust it enough with the bolt by turning it about half way around ccw, but
am wondering when I can tell if it is the same on both sides other than
sighting it in and measuring the fender height, and why it might be so far
off on one side with everything new?
Thanks,
Grant
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