<VV> Re: Brake Bleeder is Broken

[Frank DuVal]

First, flare wrenches are one place where good quality tools is better 
than cheap tools. I have been happy with the Husky brand at Home Depot 
recently. I picked them up when on sale.

Vise Grips are another place where the name brand works so much better 
than any off brand I have used.

Use Vise Grips to really hold the flare wrench onto the flare nut. Put 
the wrench on first, then adjust the vise grips to grab the flare 
tighter. This usually helps keep from rounding off the nut flats. In the 
worst case, you need heat, and lots of it. Mapp gas torch at least. But 
there is a REAL danger of fire. DO not do this if there is any gasoline 
leak. An Oxy-Acetelyne torch is best, but hundreds of dollars to buy one.

After the nuts have rounded off, and you are replacing the lines anyway, 
just use lots of penetrating oil  and then apply vise grips directly 
without the flare wrench. And,  if you are putting in new wheel 
cylinders and lines, just cut the line at the nut.

Remember to use two wrenches when removing/ replacing lines at hoses and 
junction blocks.

No need to drill holes in trunk, but you might need two new gas tank 
strap bolts. Loosen the nuts on the gas tank strap bolts as far as you 
can. You can (tape the end first to keep dirt out) fish a new gas line 
above the tank without removing the gas tank. It will not be held by the 
factory clips, and sometimes the old line will get stuck and cannot be 
removed. But this is repair work, not restoration work. Later when  you 
have the tank out you can remove the old line and route the new line 
correctly.

As John and tim have said recently, replace all the steel lines, as they 
rust out and cause instant brake failure. BTDT, even with dual master. 
Twice!

Frank DuVal



Matthew Klopfer wrote:

>Alright, I've already proven my ignorance. A quick glance at the shop manual shows that the valve goes directly into the back of the cylinder. So I'll need to replace that, which doesn't seem quite as daunting. 
>
>Sure, I have brake lines new in the box. I also have brake hoses. The reason these are still in the box and not on the car is because I CANNOT get the old lines off. That will present a major problem for me as I try to finish up this project. 
>
>Does anyone have any good tips for getting these off? Penetrating fluid has done nothing. 
>
>My flare wrenches slide along the fittings and grip them in the next position without actually moving them at all. This is infuriating. It makes me want to cut off all of the parts, drill two new holes in the trunk, and make my own way. How un-advisable is that?
>
>Matt 
>1968 Monza 110 Convertible
>
>
>  
>
>  
>