<VV> valves/clicking - Adjustment

[kcvair at netscape.com]

Seth - Thanks for the info.  I just finished putting a rebuilt together and wondered how to best set the valves.  You've helped more than 1 person and I have your method for my files.  Thanks, Ken Clark

KCVAIR
66 CORSA CN W/AIR
65 CORSA CP

--- Sethracer at aol.com wrote:

From: Sethracer at aol.com
To: computerwhiz31 at gmail.com, virtualvairs at corvair.org
Cc:
Subject: Re: <VV> valves/clicking - Adjustment
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 23:46:26 EDT

 
In a message dated 8/28/2007 5:02:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time,  
computerwhiz31 at gmail.com writes:

some  suggestions.
P.S. how many degrees do i turn the crank pulley to get the  the next piston.
i turned it 365, and was off.

--  
-jon




Jon - You have two good choices. Chevy did the homework. Method One - You  
can adjust half the valves at Cylinder #1 TDC (top of the compression stroke)  
The manual tells you which ones - but it includes both of the valves at 
Cylinder  #1  and four others. Then rotate the engine one complete turn - That brings 
 cylinder #2  to TDC on the compression stroke. Adjust the remaining 6  
valves. That is the printed method. Since the motor gives you the indicator of  
EXACTLY TDC for cylinders one or two - it is the same point on the  balancer, 
just 360 degrees - one turn - apart. It is the fool proof way.  The second method 
(Method Two!)involves adjusting each cylinder when it is  at its own TDC. The 
cylinders reach TDC in their firing order  1-4-5-2-3-6,  as the engine turns 
over in it's correct direction - counter clockwise, looking  at the 
balancer/pulley. It takes two revolutions of the crank for all six to  have reached TDC. 
That means the TDCs for the cylinders are 120 degrees apart.  The balancer or 
pulley is not likely to be marked at 120 degree intervals,  however, but it 
possible to do so. Richard Finch's original "How to Keep you  Corvair alive" 
had a template for marking your balancer. It is one-third of the  way around. 
You can be "just close" on the marking for this method, since you  are isolating 
each cylinders TDC, and neither the intake nor the exhaust valve  is moving 
very close to it's cylinders TDC.  I do the "roll the pushrod  between the 
thumb and forefinger" method of determining zero lash. Not everybody  likes that 
method - But Screw them! - Oops,  I meant to say "It works  for me!, So that is 
what I recommend. By the way, I highly suggest using a  breaker bar - NOT a 
ratchet - for that final
adjustment of the rocker nut. Using the breaker bar allows you to move the  
socket back and forth easily (as you roll the pushrod between your fingers) to  
reach that "perfect" point, then crank in your pre-load. I use one-quarter of 
a  turn on street motors. Your mileage may vary, in fact I guarantee it!  -  
Seth Emerson



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