<VV> valves/clicking - Adjustment

[D. Barry Ellison]

And Jon, one rule of thumb to give you a 'warm fuzzy' that you're close is 
there should be 3 or 4 threads showing above the nut when you're done.  If 
you'll look at yours that are all loose, you should find that's not the 
case.  (Obviously that statement applies to a stock engine w/o lots of head 
work, near stock valve train, etc.)

I've NEVER done them one cylinder at time, even when doing an o-ring job - 
seems like too much work to me.  I go back when I'm through and follow the 
Shop Manual.  Seems to work well.

Barry in SC
2 lates, 2 earlies


>
>Jon - You have two good choices. Chevy did the homework. Method One - You
>can adjust half the valves at Cylinder #1 TDC (top of the compression 
>stroke)
>The manual tells you which ones - but it includes both of the valves at
>Cylinder  #1  and four others. Then rotate the engine one complete turn - 
>That brings
>  cylinder #2  to TDC on the compression stroke. Adjust the remaining 6
>valves. That is the printed method. Since the motor gives you the indicator 
>of
>EXACTLY TDC for cylinders one or two - it is the same point on the  
>balancer,
>just 360 degrees - one turn - apart. It is the fool proof way.  The second 
>method
>(Method Two!)involves adjusting each cylinder when it is  at its own TDC. 
>The
>cylinders reach TDC in their firing order  1-4-5-2-3-6,  as the engine 
>turns
>over in it's correct direction - counter clockwise, looking  at the
>balancer/pulley. It takes two revolutions of the crank for all six to  have 
>reached TDC.
>That means the TDCs for the cylinders are 120 degrees apart.  The balancer 
>or
>pulley is not likely to be marked at 120 degree intervals,  however, but it
>possible to do so. Richard Finch's original "How to Keep you  Corvair 
>alive"
>had a template for marking your balancer. It is one-third of the  way 
>around.
>You can be "just close" on the marking for this method, since you  are 
>isolating
>each cylinders TDC, and neither the intake nor the exhaust valve  is moving
>very close to it's cylinders TDC.  I do the "roll the pushrod  between the
>thumb and forefinger" method of determining zero lash. Not everybody  likes 
>that
>method - But Screw them! - Oops,  I meant to say "It works  for me!, So 
>that is
>what I recommend. By the way, I highly suggest using a  breaker bar - NOT a
>ratchet - for that final
>adjustment of the rocker nut. Using the breaker bar allows you to move the
>socket back and forth easily (as you roll the pushrod between your fingers) 
>to
>reach that "perfect" point, then crank in your pre-load. I use one-quarter 
>of
>a  turn on street motors. Your mileage may vary, in fact I guarantee it!  -
>Seth Emerson
>
>
>
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