<VV> Failed emissions test

[FrankCB at aol.com]

Daniel,
    When you retard the base spark timing by 10 deg  from where you now have 
it (as Jim recommends) and raise the idle speed to near  1000 rpm, make SURE 
that the vacuum advance does NOT come into operation and  cause spark advance.  
When I used to do this exact same procedure many  years ago to Jim's 140 
(before he "inherited" it from me<GG>) the throttle  plate would open far enough 
to cause operation of the vacuum advance which would  negate my retard of the 
base timing.  So I had to disconnect the vacuum  advance tubing from the 
distributor and plug it to keep the faster idle timing  from advancing.  The car 
drove like it had only about 40 hp but as soon as  it passed the emission test I 
restored it back to its normal full power  operation.
    Good luck and let us know you you make out with the  emission test.
    Regards,
    Frank "the elder" Burkhard
 
 
In a message dated 8/17/2007 3:31:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
burkhard at rochester.rr.com writes:

1.   If they sniff right where you have teh idle speed set, make sure 
it's set  a little high.  Go for 1000 rpm (you didn't say if this an 
automatic,  but if it is you don't want to go too high or it will be 
quite a lurch on  engaging "D"). If they rev it up to take the 
reading "off-idle", don't  bother fiddling with the idle speed, though.

2.  Retard the static  spark advance by 10 deg from where you now have 
it (10 deg BTC sounds a  bit low already though... what is the spec?).  
This will tend to make  the engine run hot (because combustion rates 
will be slower exhaust temps  will be higher), so drive it 
conservatively and try to make this  "adjustment" nearby the inspection 
place.  You don't want to drive  the car hard for 20 miles and burn an 
exhaust valve.  The hotter  exhaust will do wonders to oxidize the HC 
and CO.  :-)







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