<VV> Learning curve/clutch

Sun Apr 29 01:47:02 EDT 2007

IF, and this is a big IF, somebody has done the mix and match game, and done
it properly, wouldn't the key piece of information here be the bellhousing?

What he really needs to know is which PP/FW combination to I need to have on
hand to do the R&R.  And IF the previous work was done properly, wouldn't
the bellhousing be the key?

You'd also want to do a double check on the tranny to see if you'll need the
small ID early snout seal or the later larger ID one.  Because if they've
put in a '64 engine, they may have put in and entire powerpack and not just
the engine.

Correct me if I'm wrong about the bellhousing Frank.

Regards,
Joel

-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of Frank DuVal
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 5:08 PM
To: Kerry and jan B
Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: Re: <VV> Learning curve/clutch

Notes embedded below:

Kerry and jan B wrote:

> Hi,
>
> A couple of questions. Considering replacing my clutch. Whether the
> slippage is caused by wear or by oil is yet to be determined. I do 
> have an oil leak from somewhere back there. There is oil coming out of 
> the little hole at the bottom of the bell housing.  Can't really tell 
> if it's engine or gear case oil though. In any case it probably 
> shouldn't be there. Clutch pedal travel seems the same as last year.

Gear oil has a smell that should be evident when you smell the drip from 
the hole. No smell, it is engine oil.

>
> A couple of issues I need to clear up. The car is a 63 ((standard) 
> turbo)) that sure looks like a 64. Is there anyway to tell if the 
> power train is 63 or 64?

Not real easy with an assembled engine. You can check the stroke, but 
that is difficult with the heads on. You could check the distance from 
the top of the piston to the wrist pin. Again, impossible with the 
assembled engine. I know this is virtually impossible, as I have owned a 
64 Spyder since 1976, that somewhere the engine was swapped to a 145 cu 
in 150 turbo. If the accessories were changed ( magnesium fan, 64 only 
generator pulley, etc.)  only the head numbers could be a clue. I say 
could be as the 64 open chamber heads can be bolted to a 62, 63  YR code 
block. Only a full disassembly will tell you what has happened over the 
years. A clue for the differential is 64 does not have a drain plug.

> Apparently there is a difference between the 63 and 64 since Clarks 
> has gasket kits for each year?? I would like to preorder parts but I 
> think thats' going to be impossible if I can't figure out before hand 
> what I actually have. It seems there are also differences in the 
> clutch/pressure plate/flywheel and throwout bearing between the 
> normally aspirated engine and turbo??

The 64 was the first year for the step milled in the flywheel. So, the 
pressure plate and flywheel must agree, throwout bearing and ball stud 
also. The parts as a group can be used together in any engine/drive 
train combination.

The turbo and 140 hp engines came with the weighted pressure plate. But 
I have seen many run with the normal pressure plate. I would put the 
weighted one in. A 8" clutch disk was supposedly stock for low hp 
engines (80, 95), but almost every engine I have worked on had the 9" 
disk. The 9" disk fits ALL stock pressure plate/flywheel combinations.

>
> It would be nice to have the necessary parts on hand but that may not 
> be possible?

If the supplier didn't mind getting a different core back than you 
ordered, just order the stepped flywheel style flywheel and pressure 
plate. If you are thinking of saving money and not buying a rebuilt 
flywheel, think again. Of course if there is already a bolted flywheel 
in there then you are OK. You CAN bolt up a flywheel yourself (I have 
never purchased a rebuilt), but it would be great if a fellow club 
member showed you how on the first one. A local shop that does balancing 
is also nice, but not always necessary. Unfortunately, you do not know 
if it is necessary until the drive train is installed and test driven....

>
> Next, is there a good book/manual  regarding engine removal, leaving 
> transaxel in the car? Clarks has one that says it's for power train 
> removal. Is that a good one or is there a better one? Maybe something 
> that has step by step instructions?

On an early, I do not recall myself ever trying to remove the engine 
with the drive train left in the car. It is simple on an early to remove 
the whole assembly as a unit. None of those silly rear strut rods to 
deal with! ggggg

Frank DuVal

>
>
> Kerry B.
>
> 63/64 Spyder Turbo convertible
>
>
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