<VV> installing a cam?
D. Barry Ellison
bars84crx at hotmail.com
Fri Apr 13 06:04:29 EDT 2007
.... not for the faint of heart... not intended as textbook/recipe...
I, like you, did not grow up a motor head. I have a brother that did
though. I've learned most everything through either reading or actually
turning the wrenches. A little bit through asking questions... which would
be like asking for directions. :)
> I have been considering a moderate performance cam for a while now, (
>I want a little of a lopey idle) and was wondering how much work I would
>have to do to install it. I have no intention
Check Clark's web site. They have cams in the 260, 270, and 280 duration
range. The 280 is as much as you want for the street. I've got the 280 and
am very happy with it. It it was just a daily driver, I'd probably go with
less, the 270 probably. Similar cams at other vendors.
>of a full rebuild... and want to minimize disassembly. Is there any
>shortcut for installing a cam or is >pretty much full disassembly? I'm not
>a mechanic so dont assume I know anything! I just know the
Since you're removing the heads which takes the lifters off the cam, it can
be done by leaving one side of the piston/jug assemblies on. One side has
to come off. Remove the rods, pistons, jugs as an assy. Keep it all mated
up, especially the bearings. Also keep track of everything that comes from
where... keeping all the mated surfaces together is important from a wear
perspective. Keep everything from the cam log to the valve stem in the same
place for reassy. I make holders out of wood to keep track of parts, some
with holes for the push rods, some with dowels for the rocker arm sets. A
paddle bit works well for lifters. Label your wood so you know which side
is which.
It really doesn't save much work, just 6 nuts and a little table space and a
little work.
>
> While I'm at it, is there anything else I should be sure to do while
>I have the engine out and its easy to get to? I'm already replacing the
>fan bearing, what am I missing?
>
Buy a full engine seal kit from a vendor. Use everything you can.
There are a lot of things you can do to the inside to make the oil flow
better (but would require the removal of the crank - remember those 6 nuts?
). Get a copy of Bob Helt's book, The Classic Corvair... read it... then
read it again. Lots of great hints in there. If I can follow it, you can,
too.
Imperative - De-flash the heads as discussed in Bob's book.
Replacing the front tranny mounts is a good idea, while it's out. Not
cheap! The rubber hose at fire wall is though.
Did I mention that you need to get Bob Helt's book? ;) He's got a carb
book out that would tell you more than you want to know. It's good enough
to get you through your carbs, if you're brave enough. (Just about got all
my problems figured out, too.) If your carbs work, then I'd probably leave
them alone. Some of those screws/jets get tight, strip, and have to be
drilled out. Not for the faint of heart. If you go into one with just the
idea of cleaning it up, clearing the passages, etc, you might be okay. I
wouldn't suggest going into one w/o someone beside you (or available) to
show/ask questions.
YMMV of course, and I'm sure you'll get a bunch of other stuff and opinions
on this list.
Let us know how it goes.
Barry in SC
2 lates, 2 earlies... something's gotta go!
Professional Geek
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