<VV> Rear Hub Nut Torque

[mhicks130 at cox.net]

> *********************************************
>  What also occured to me, is that there is a preload
> on LM rear wheel bearings, similar to the
> differential. You have to match up the right shims, to
> make sure that when the unit heats up, IE moves down
> the road a bit, the tolerances are correct for
> operating, otherwise the thing eats itself up quickly.
> Swapping out rear wheel bearings is a little more
> difficult that the simple swap and go that the fronts
> are. This is one of those jobs I've always left to my
> good friends Cal and Lon.
> 
>  Mike
>  YS-117
> 
> *********************************************

There's no preload per se, it's a clearance you set.  Smitty and I measured the right one when we replaced that side and the new bearing measured out right on.  We didn'nt measure the left side but it "felt" right (!).  The theory is that bearings are made to a tighter tolerance than the clearance and so if the clearance is currently OK, then it will be with the new bearings too.  It may be "best" to have a vendor do it for you but I'm 2 for 2 on doing nothing so far.  According to one expert I know, the factory didn't check every one either.  To do it right you have to put everything back together, including the yoke nut and then measure the play.  If it's out of spec you then have to dissasemble most of it to get to the spacer and either put in a new spacer with the correct dimension or add spacers to get to the correct dimension.  Like I said, it wasn't a problem on either of mine but that doesn't mean it won't be a problem for you.

If you do it yourself using a special tool or a press, I don't advise doing it with a room full of hecklers hanging around. They can be quite annoying and the job is slightly stressful as it is.

mike