<VV> Rear Hub Nut Torque
Smitty Smith
vairologist at verizon.net
Thu Sep 28 10:30:43 EDT 2006
Smitty says: OK guys lets all get on the same page here. One guy is talking about the axle yoke nut and the other is talking about wheel lug nuts. The Max Torque I can find for a 7/16 x 20 grade 8 bolt (Wheel lug) is 80 ft lbs. Because of their tapered seat wheel lugs don't need that much. More like 55-60. I can tell you this. If a tapered seat lug nut is tightened to 80 lbs your wife or daughter is not going to change that tire and you may well break a lug wrench trying it yourself.
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Re: Vairy 8 (Kevin Spargur)
2. Re: Re: Vairy 8 (John Sweet)
3. lm rear hub nut torque ? (mhicks130 at cox.net)
4. RE: lm rear hub nut torque ? (Norman C. Witte)
5. Re: lm rear hub nut torque ? (jryall at juno.com)
6. Re: lm rear hub nut torque ? (TimogensTurbo at aol.com)
7. RE: lm rear hub nut torque ? (Norman C. Witte)
8. Re: lm rear hub nut torque ? (Mike Stillwell)
9. Vairy 8 (4carbcorvair)
10. Re: Re: Flooding problem? (Andy Clark)
11. a survey of the masses.... what do YOU use? (LonzoVair at aol.com)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 11:03:28 -0400
From: Kevin Spargur
Subject: Re: Re: Vairy 8
To: Gary Swiatowy
Cc: virtual vairs
Message-ID: <451A92C0.3080308 at bellsouth.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Gary,
There are actually two (2) of the same Vairy 8 only different colors.
At our Wally World, I found an olive drab one on a single-card and the
flat blue one in the ten-pack. You've actually found something
different than what some of us have because (at least in my case) the
flat blue hasn't been reported as being available in the single-car
blister pack until now. Though I already have it, I wouldn't mind
seeing it so I can tell others what to look for when asked.
Kevin Spargur
'67 Monza HT
Jacksonville, Florida
Gary Swiatowy wrote:
> It has been mentioned before that there is a new Hot Wheels Vairy 8 out there, blue in color, and possibly only available at Wal-Mart.I found a couple single on card the other day at my local Wal-Mart, but I also found the same car available in a 10-pack, this pack cost $9.97.
> Happy Hunting!
>
> Gary Swiatowy
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 12:21:39 -0400
From: "John Sweet"
Subject: Re: Re: Vairy 8
To: "Gary Swiatowy" , "virtual
vairs"
Message-ID: <012801c6e251$0438d6a0$8ed609d1 at Charlotte>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
Gary,
I have actually found 2 different versions of the Blue Vairy8 at Wal-Mart.
One has the header pipes coming out the side windows and the other one does
not have the headers coming out the windows.
John Sweet
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Swiatowy"
To: "virtual vairs"
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: Vairy 8
It has been mentioned before that there is a new Hot Wheels Vairy 8 out
there, blue in color, and possibly only available at Wal-Mart.I found a
couple single on card the other day at my local Wal-Mart, but I also found
the same car available in a 10-pack, this pack cost $9.97.
Happy Hunting!
Gary Swiatowy
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------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:05:02 -0400
From:
Subject: lm rear hub nut torque ?
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID:
<8052509.1159383902203.JavaMail.root at eastrmwml08.mgt.cox.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
The 65 shop manual says that the torque for the rear bearing hub nuts is 100-150 ft-lbs. That can't be right. They're smaller than the wheel lugs so maybe 3/8 or 7/16ths. I've got the Service News updates but I couldn't find any updated/corrected torque value for these guys. I torqued them to 50 ft-lbs because that "felt" right. So far so good but I'd like to know what they're supposed to be.
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:25:42 -0400
From: "Norman C. Witte"
Subject: RE: lm rear hub nut torque ?
To: ,
Message-ID: <058d01c6e26a$b8f0aff0$7101a8c0 at wittelaw.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I just looked in the same places and saw the same things. Just curious--did
you get new bolts? I would torque them to spec. Anything requiring that
kind of twist I would replace rather than reuse.
I don't remember ever breaking a new grade 8 bolt with a regular torque
wrench. I don't think torquing it to spec is going to hurt anything, and if
it was a misprint I am sure it would have made it into the bulletin.
Considering that these bolts are basically holding the wheel on the car, I
think it would be a mistake to under-torque them.
Norm
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mhicks130 at cox.net [mailto:mhicks130 at cox.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 3:05 PM
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Subject: lm rear hub nut torque ?
>
> The 65 shop manual says that the torque for the rear bearing hub nuts is
> 100-150 ft-lbs. That can't be right. They're smaller than the wheel lugs
> so maybe 3/8 or 7/16ths. I've got the Service News updates but I couldn't
> find any updated/corrected torque value for these guys. I torqued them to
> 50 ft-lbs because that "felt" right. So far so good but I'd like to know
> what they're supposed to be.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This message was sent by the VirtualVairs mailing list, all copyrights are
> the property
> of the writer, please attribute properly. For help, mailto:vv-
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> http://www.corvair.org/
> Post messages to: VirtualVairs at corvair.org
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>
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:16:47 -0400
From: jryall at juno.com
Subject: Re: lm rear hub nut torque ?
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <20060927.153128.2300.0.jryall at juno.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I think the 100 to 150 figure is for the BIG center nut on the axle.
John Ryall
On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:05:02 -0400 writes:
> The 65 shop manual says that the torque for the rear bearing hub nuts
> is 100-150 ft-lbs. That can't be right. They're smaller than the
> wheel lugs so maybe 3/8 or 7/16ths. I've got the Service News
> updates but I couldn't find any updated/corrected torque value for
> these guys. I torqued them to 50 ft-lbs because that "felt" right.
> So far so good but I'd like to know what they're supposed to be.
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:34:55 EDT
From: TimogensTurbo at aol.com
Subject: Re: lm rear hub nut torque ?
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <238.f6387dd.324c2c5f at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
In a message dated 9/27/2006 12:33:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jryall at juno.com writes:
> I think the 100 to 150 figure is for the BIG center nut on the axle.
>
> John Ryall
>
=======================================================
I KNOW it is!! ggg Torque is relative to the SIZE / GRADE of bolt /
nut.....
Matt Nall
stocker, mod, v8, turbo, boat, Sandcar
ALLVAIR!
Timogen was a softy!
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:33:46 -0400
From: "Norman C. Witte"
Subject: RE: lm rear hub nut torque ?
To: ,
Message-ID: <058e01c6e26b$d9796ef0$7101a8c0 at wittelaw.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I think John has it right. Mike, look in the next section of the Rear Axle
and Suspension specs, and you will see "Rear Wheel Spindle Support to Torque
Control Arm" listed at 25-35 ft. lbs.
Norm
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mhicks130 at cox.net [mailto:mhicks130 at cox.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 3:05 PM
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
> Subject: lm rear hub nut torque ?
>
> The 65 shop manual says that the torque for the rear bearing hub nuts is
> 100-150 ft-lbs. That can't be right. They're smaller than the wheel lugs
> so maybe 3/8 or 7/16ths. I've got the Service News updates but I couldn't
> find any updated/corrected torque value for these guys. I torqued them to
> 50 ft-lbs because that "felt" right. So far so good but I'd like to know
> what they're supposed to be.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This message was sent by the VirtualVairs mailing list, all copyrights are
> the property
> of the writer, please attribute properly. For help, mailto:vv-
> help at corvair.org
> This list sponsored by the Corvair Society of America,
> http://www.corvair.org/
> Post messages to: VirtualVairs at corvair.org
> Change your options:
> http://www.vv.corvair.org/mailman/options/virtualvairs
> _______________________________________________
>
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 13:13:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mike Stillwell
Subject: Re: lm rear hub nut torque ?
To: mhicks130 at cox.net, virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <20060927201332.75068.qmail at web53015.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Mike, If you're putting the retainers on the U-Joint,
you are working on the Yoke, rather than the Bearing
Hub. Also you're putting in Bolts vs. a Nut, right?!
Mike
YS-117
--- mhicks130 at cox.net wrote:
> The 65 shop manual says that the torque for the rear
> bearing hub nuts is 100-150 ft-lbs. That can't be
> right. They're smaller than the wheel lugs so maybe
> 3/8 or 7/16ths. I've got the Service News updates
> but I couldn't find any updated/corrected torque
> value for these guys. I torqued them to 50 ft-lbs
> because that "felt" right. So far so good but I'd
> like to know what they're supposed to be.
>
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------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 17:18:47 -0400
From: 4carbcorvair <4carbcorvair at gmail.com>
Subject: Vairy 8
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID:
<7acc0c090609271418m721efc1fr9669fb177e20389c at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I have the black, green and purple and silver Vairy 8's. I also have a black
Vairy * with no side markings/decals. Must have slipped through the decal
process. I've been keeping my eye open for the blue one, haven't found it
yet. From my understanding, and I may be incorrect, the one with the side
pipes is a slip-up also.
--
Ron Tinkham
66 Corsa Convertable, 140, 4sp.
Maine
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 19:25:31 -0700
From: "Andy Clark"
Subject: Re: Re: Flooding problem?
To: "Virtualvairs"
Message-ID: <01a301c6e2a5$5f8e99a0$0a0110ac at h9g3c2>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Just recently I've had the third instance in my experience in which the
gasket which seals the inlet needle seat body to the carb top was leaking.
This causes gas to by-pass the needle and continue to fill the carb after
the engine is shut off, until the fuel pressure bleeds down. Ultimately the
gas begins to drip from the cluster and flood the engine.
I can find no obvious reason why the gasket between the needle seat body and
the carb body should leak, but 3 of them have (2 of mine from the Clone and
one from a friend's Corsa- all primaries). The quick fix is to install 2
gaskets, reset float level to 1 1/8 and float drop per the manual, and you
should be good to go.
It's perhaps the fault of the thinner gaskets now sold for this application.
My old stock of gaskets are thicker and seem to seal better.
Andy Clark
1966 140/4 Monza Sedan
1966 140/4 Yenko Clone
1966 180/4 Cord 8/10 #60
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Monasterio"
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: Flooding problem?
Hi Paul,
You are right, it is in the carburetor. There are 2 possibilities: 1.-
Check the float for any gasoline on the inside by shaking it (out of the
carb) and/or dry it out and watch for any trace of gas coming for the
inside. 2.- If the float is ok, go for the inlet valve which could allow gas
to enter (while closed) for, at least 3 reasons. A.- Bad sealing between
plunger and seat. B.- Some dirt trapped between plunger and seat due to poor
gas filtering. C.- Loose valve body or bad/no gasket to carb top.
Hope this help
Daniel Monasterio
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 00:35:31 EDT
From: LonzoVair at aol.com
Subject: a survey of the masses.... what do YOU use?
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Message-ID: <51b.7e21b8e.324cab13 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Hey Guys and Gals,
The seats in the 69 are original, and blue.... I swapped some stuff with a
guy who had some very nice (unripped) 69 Monza seats and door panels, and I've
been trying to clean out the 25 years of dirt that the seats have accumulated
while in his garage.... I'm going to install the rear seat-back first, as
I've been cleaning it for the last 2 days... using a combination of "spray 'n
wash" and a squirt bottle of water, and a toothbrush and a hairbrush to get
the dirt out og the little-bitty-teeny-weeny oval dimples in the upholstery....
anyone know of a better method?
Also, what product have you guys used on the upholstery to keep it from
cracking? Please don't say a garage, as I don't have one.... not yet... it will
be sometime after next spring, if it's that soon.... I don't think Armor All is
good (heard bad stuff a while back)... but is there anything you guys have
used for several (5+) years and swear by? (not swear AT)... remember, this car
is NOT garaged, and no tinted windows.... (yet)...
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks a bunch!
Oh, I might not use all the stuff I got..... the upholstery is the original
blue 68-69 style Monza seats and panels... if anyone is interested in any of
the stuff I don't use, I might let it go cheap... real cheap if you want to
come pick it up... but I gotta use what I need, first.
Anyway, let me know.
Later,
Lonzo
Lon Anderson in White Mills, KY
CORSA, Corvanatics, Derby City Corvair, Central Ky Corvair
Quart Low Quarterly Editor
1961 Greenbrier 110/pg
1963 Greenbrier 110/4spd
1964 700 sedan 95/pg
1969 Monza 110/pg
------------------------------
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