<VV> 1963 Spyder Vert.

[Frank DuVal]

The chances of factory metallic brakes are slim. 99% chance of needing a 
standard bore. You could pull a brake drum and see if there are metallic 
brake shoes installed. But, after these many years, shoes get changed. 
The bore size stamped on the wheel cylinders will tell if they are 
standard or metallic originally. Maybe some of the data plate 
knowledgeable people will chime in if there is a symbol on the data 
plate for metallic. But this is allot of trouble, you can measure the 
bore of the master cylinder easily once it is off the car. No need to 
disassemble, just remove the rubber boot and measure! You can tell the 
difference in 7/8" and 1" with a tape measure, no inside micrometers needed.

Take a sample of the brake fluid from the master cylinder and place it 
on some painted surface. The more shiny and expensive to repaint the 
better <ggggg>  (warning, paint can be irrepribly harned doing this 
test). If the paint wrinkles up or can be wiped off, it is standard 
glycol based fluid. If the paint remains in good shape it is probably 
silicone based fluid. Another test only those with electronics 
background will understand, take an Xcelite brand screwdriver and place 
the handle in the brake fluid. If the handle gets soft or funny feeling, 
it is regular glycol based fluid.

I would recomend a full brake system rebuild as I live on the east coat 
and have rusty steel brake lines as standard equipment on all the cars I 
work on. But, if it passes the hard harder hardest test (and if you do 
not know this, ask, it is a saftey test that SHOULD be done), then just 
adding silicone brake fluid to the master cylinder and bleed the system 
(know also as flushing) until the fluid out of all four wheel cylinders 
runs clear. Trap the fluid in a clear jar or can using a piece of vacuum 
tubing so you can really see the color. If you are flushing the system 
then bench bleeding the master cylinder can be done, but is not 
necessary.  You may want to make sure all four bleeder screws are 
moveable before planing to flush the system. If they are stuck, then you 
might get away with bench bleeding the master and installing it, or it 
is time for a system rebuild.

Cowl vent (screen) <panel> whatever, remove the screws showing along the 
front edge with the trunk open. Remove the wiper arms. pull the panel 
forward to disengage the tabs at the rear. Wiggle, etc, the panel until 
it clears the wiper posts, trunk lid, and antenna. It is a tight fit it 
seems on some cars. If you live under trees and it is not a concours 
car, you can glue some nylon screen under the vents to keep leaves out. 
Epoxy works well. Taping the edges of the panel and trunk lid may help 
if there appears to be an interferrence fit when removing/installing 
this panel. NOT duct tape, some automotive type masking tape or the 
easily release type rated for 7 or 14 days of contact (blue, purple, etc).

Frank DuVal

Kerry and Jan Born wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Needed to buy a replacement master cylinder for this car which should 
> be an easy project. Well it wasn't. Went to buy it and the guy at the 
> counter wanted to know what size the bore was..? 1" or 7/8". He asked 
> if the car had metallic brakes  or not.  Ok I don't have a clue! So my 
> question, how can I figure out what I need?
>
> Along the same lines how can I tell if the car has regular or silicon 
> brake fluid in it and if it's regular fluid what is needs to be done 
> to replace it with silicon..?
>
>
> Also I need to remove the 'grill/panel' that lives under the 
> windshield (don't know what it's called but it's the one that the 
> wiper shafts extend through) There appear to be a few screws visable 
> when the trunk is open but I can't see how to release the part that 
> extends under the windshield weather strip...
>
> All help gratefully accepted and appreciated.
>
> Kerry B
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