<VV> Re: Timing, Distributor, Carbs, Vacuum Problems???

Ron ronh at owt.com
Wed Sep 20 14:45:14 EDT 2006


All I can say is WOW!

RonH

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "LastHamlet" <lasthamlet at yahoo.com>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 9:04 AM
Subject: <VV> Re: Timing, Distributor, Carbs, Vacuum Problems???


> Many Thanks for all the emails and replys. Maybe I
> better add just a bit more info to clear things
> further. I also changed many other parts in the course
> of this problem hunt, and some were not related, but
> were good ideas to go ahead while I was in
> there.(Coils, shocks, entire front end, brakes,
> Clark's tranny pan & oil pan with baffler and longer
> oil pickup unit, heater moter & all hoses, completely
> redone the underbody pan, and restored all new
> items.(More than I can list)
> Most all parts came from Clark's, and all were the
> correct parts, according to their numbers. The Dizzy
> was part#1110319. I am also currently using an
> electric fuel pump, and two additional fuel
> filters(Inline/Proline type.). I have always used
> Premium Gas in the car, (And sometimes a bit of Lucas
> Fuel Additive) though admittedly have only been 1000
> miles in all the trials and test I have taken in the
> last year. Replaced the harmonic balancer with a (I
> know overpriced) 2 piece nodular steel high-end, new
> one from Clark's. Replaced tension pulley and engine
> to body seal. replaced single exhaust with welded
> factory -style dual exhaust. My wires are new 8mm
> silicone, and new plugs(although, I may need to check
> current firing condition of plugs). Went through
> several carbs, and still at times a very very small
> leak at the inlet on the driver's side carb. They are
> a matched set of premium rebuilts from Clark's, and
> appear to be an excellent specimen of the likes.
> Matching holes near the ventri of each carb would
> indicate such.
> I also replaced the carb to linkage rods with the
> swivel kind, and bearing blocks installed on the
> linkage shaft itself.(This to take any slop out of
> linkage) Believe me when I say, I have changed evry
> possible part that could be needing replacing. So, it
> may bring me to several issues pointed out by members
> here.
> 1) Someone suggested Tranny issues for the chugging,
> but I am not sure, as it seems to loose complete
> engine power, as opposed foward motion power.(Though,
> I am not the one to determine this.
> 2) It is possible that seeing how the dizzy was the
> only part I did not get from Clark's but a distributor
> who bought out Arrow, it could be the weights in it.
> (I already replaced the vacuum can, even though it is
> a remanufactured dizzy, I didn't know if the can was
> matching. (Still I don't know, as there is only one
> available for cars at Clark's, but that is the current
> one on the vehicle.
> 3) One of the other parts, even though new, or reman.,
> may be faulty
> 4) it could likely be my vacuum, or linkage not tweek
> in perfect, cause as I mentioned I am not that good of
> a mechanic. Though, when you open the hood, it looks
> like a museum quality engine, that still don't mean
> things are properly tweeked.
> MOST LIKELY:
> 5) I have not the finesse to do this type of tweeking,
> and have replaced too many parts without the knowledge
> of what I am doing, and cannot get them to work
> together.(Maybe I am a De De De!!!)
>
> I would like to thank All the people who are sending
> responses, cause I had no where else to turn. One
> fellow sent me an email, and has a shop in NC,(Shepard
> Automotive), only a couple of normal-hours drive from
> me.(Although, I will be traveling in the wee hours,
> going no faster than 55MPH.) So, before I pull the
> rest of my old grey hair out, I better take it to him,
> as I am sure you may all agree. It is becomming
> painfully obvious that I am in over my head and could
> spin in circles trying to figure this out. I did
> mention I have spent 7-months on this problem, cause
> that is no lie, I have. With that said, I will report
> back and tell of exactly what he discovered. I am
> willing to bet, even beforehand, it may be making
> everyuthing sync together, or something silly I
> overlooked.
> Here is a footnote for interests. Although, I still
> need a little body work, and a good paint job, I have
> over 25K in her already. Only one other fellow was
> allowed to work on her, when I first got her. This
> place was not familiar with Corvair's at all, and I
> ended up with a Pitman arm bushing pressed in upside
> down(How he did it I will never know), and a smashed
> gas tank from inproper jacking. Wait, there is more!!!
> Rounded out my new camber washers on the front and
> rear, trying to aline the vehicle, without jacking it
> up. And, here was the part that steamed me... My
> rear-end was leaking worse than before, but now it was
> leaking RED FLUID.... Oh yes he did put tranny fluid
> in my rea-end differential. Needless to say I have a
> custom hose for my shop vac, and had some cleaning and
> new seals to put in. (Did a complete
> driveshaft/U-Joint install as well, while I was in
> there.)
> So, you can imagine how happy I was to receive an
> email from somebody who knows how to work on
> Corvair's. I have been so scared to even let anybody
> rotate my tires, so when they need it, I will do it. I
> was able to even do the wheel alinment myself, and
> that is really a breeze. To tell you the truth,
> putting in that factory-style welded dual exhaust was
> real easy, even including putting in both new heat
> sheilds. I only wished all the other projects were
> that easy.
> So, barring a few more experiments, I am still headed
> to Shepard's this week, cause I feel out of my league.
>
> Best Regards,
> Danny Barber
>
> If anybody needs any parts they have been looking for,
> perhaps I can help you out. Be most glad to return the
> favor.
>
>
>> I am new at this so please be kind. I have been
>> working on a problem for 7 months now, and it has me
>> stumped.
>> I own a 67 Corvair Convertible with factory A/C and
>> PG
>> Tranny. Odd thing is, that in that year, in the
>> later
>> part, of which mine is, they had a different listed
>> timing spec that the rest of the year's production
>> model. (24 degrees BTDC)on a 67 corvair with 110HP-2
>> carb, flat six with PG and A/C with a wider timing
>> mark plate which also registered up to 24 degrees. I
>> have spoke to many people, and all have said that is
>> likely a missprint, but I have a lot of papers and
>> such to the contrary. Although, after playing with
>> it
>> a little, I have to agree that 24 degrees as a base
>> timing number can only work for one Corvair, being a
>> 180HP turbo-charged flat six that came in some 66
>> models.
>>   Nonetheless, here's the problem and admittidly I
>> am
>> not that good a mechanic, but have done all the work
>> so far to this little sweetie.
>>  Initially, I was having a chugging at 60-65 MPH
>> going
>> up an average hill. What did I do??? Oh God, you
>> might
>> not want to know, but I will say anyhow... First, I
>> replaced the fuel tank, sending unit, fuel lines,
>> and
>> carbs. It still chugged, so I changed the
>> distributor(But still maybe not correct vacuum
>> advance???), of course all the wires and plugs, and
>> even changed the existing Petronics with a
>> Petronics-2
>> and Flamethrower-2 Coil setup.... Still chugged and
>> jerked. (Plus, some up and down idle issues.)
>>   I got all kinds of silly advice, from a wire from
>> the battery to the starter, to odd suggestions. Most
>> of which I discarded, but several ideas I went with,
>> cause they posed no harm, and I did intend to make a
>> full-restore of it anyhow. So, I changed the entire
>> wiring harnesses(end to end w/exact repro's, as I am
>> a
>> good electrical man, just not that knowing of
>> combustion engines.) I changed the voltage
>> regulator,
>> and heat sensors. One time I must have had the
>> vacuum
>> advance/Vacuum advance set wrong, cause the only way
>> I
>> could get her to run at all was to use a restrictor
>> valve inline from carb vac to advance can. At that
>> point I realized 24 degrees was no the right timing,
>> no matter what the papers said.
>>  Plus, to make it confusing even more, before I
>> bought
>> the car, she was rebuilt with forged pistons and
>> Deeves rings(.020 0ver), and a stock cam, so I
>> really
>> didn't know if that would change my timing setup, or
>> vacuum advance specs or what??? I just didn't know.
>> I have tried several manners of adjusting the
>> timing,
>> be it total timing(Centrifigul+Base) and even
>> checked
>> total of advance. However, without know what the
>> target I am shooting for is, I may be lost? Idle is
>> close, but the best base timing I have found so far
>> is
>> 8 degrees BTDC, and still I cannot get her to run up
>> a
>> hill over 60 MPH, and really, not run at all, over
>> that speed, like it is cutting out, chugging and or
>> flooding???
>> About to loose my mables, any idelas?
>> All The Best Regards,
>> Danny Barber
>> Haw River, North Carolina
>>
>> __________________________________________________
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>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 9
>> Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 10:05:01 EDT
>> From: Ebarr19 at aol.com
>> Subject: Re: <VV> Re: VirtualVairs Digest, Vol 20,
>> Issue 107
>> To: lasthamlet at yahoo.com, virtualvairs at corvair.org
>> Message-ID: <c5b.19f0e36.3242a48d at aol.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>>
>> Danny
>>   From what you have stated, I would check the
>> distributor weights to  see if
>> they are in backwards, I had that happen once and
>> also had loss of  power.
>>  Gene Barr
>>
>
>
>
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