<VV> Corvair Fuel problem

[Chris C, Warwick RI]

Did the test.  Nothing.  Pumped like crazy, nothing.

Took it out, and tried it.  Made some sound, but felt like it was very 
stiff.  Took it apart.  Curious to see the inside.  Lots of rust and 
crud.   But the rubber was still supple.

Cleaned it out, tested it again, and within 2 pumps it was passing gas.

Put it in, cranked for about 10 sec, and she starts.

I will order a replacement...just in case.

If it stops raining I will take it on a test drive.  Initally it sounds 
like it is running 300 rpms faster at idle, but I did reset the points when 
I thought that was the no start problem.



At 04:43 AM 9/13/2006, you wrote:
>The first test is not on the bench, but on the car. I have yet to see the 
>crankshaft stop in a position where I cannot perform this fuel test:
>
>Remove or loosen the fuel pump mounting bolt so it is no longer capturing 
>the pump. Loosen the pump output line, typically at a carb as the "T" is 
>hard to uncrew with the fuel lines attached! Push down on the pump several 
>times and you should hear the sounds of rubber diaphrams moving and gas 
>should start to flow out of the loose line. This is a great way to prime 
>carbs after an extended sitting period.
>
>If no gas flows, you could get some fittings and attach a rubber hose to 
>the the inlet and put the other end in a gas can. This would isolate the 
>problem to fuel pump or fuel tank/lines system.
>
>BTW, did you check the rubber hose that connects the steel line under the 
>car to the engine steel line? This can get a hole that does not leak gas, 
>but sucks air. A metal can fuel filter installed here is also a great 
>additional rust trap.
>
>I haven't seen a worn out fuel pump cam on a Corvair, but, I haven't seen 
>everything!
>
>Frank DuVal
>
>Chris C, Warwick RI wrote:
>
>>Once again I have made the simple seem complex.
>>
>>Anyway I can bench test a pump?
>>
>>This morning I took the pump off a running motor I have in the garage, 
>>from a 65/110
>>
>>That one came out easily.  Cleaned up the outsides.
>>
>>Removed fittings and bolts off the one on my car.  Did not want to come 
>>out or even rotate.  Needed a little leverage to get it to come 
>>off.  Needed a magnet and a screwdriver to remove the pump rod (did not 
>>rotate the motor).  But it was stuck in.    The pump rods were both 
>>square at the end and the same length. The springs were the same 
>>also.  It did have gas in it.
>>
>>Put the used pump in, still no gas flow.  Used a clear line so I could 
>>see if fluid was being sucked in.
>>
>>Charging the battery and will try cranking the motor for about a minute 
>>to see if I have any joy.
>>
>>Is it possible the problem lies on the other end, where the pump pushrod 
>>rides on?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>I eliminated that as a problem by running from a gas can.
>>>
>>>Its near the end of the season, I may convert to electric with all the 
>>>appropriate safety devices, but will price it out.
>>>
>>>
>>>At 08:04 AM 9/11/2006, you wrote:
>>>
>>>>Double check the rubber hoses at the rear wheel and at the fuel tank... 
>>>>they can get a crack in them and allow air into the lines, and no fuel 
>>>>pump will pump air...
>>>>To answer your question, if you like to tinker and have time on your 
>>>>hands, go electric... if you just want to get the car into driving 
>>>>shape and have fun, go factory...
>>>>Good luck!
>>>>Lonzo
>>>>
>>>>Lon Anderson in White Mills, KY
>>>>CORSA, Corvanatics, Derby City Corvair, Central Ky Corvair
>>>>Quart Low Quarterly Editor
>>>>1961 Greenbrier 110/pg
>>>>1963 Greenbrier 110/4spd
>>>>1964 700 sedan 95/pg
>>>>1969 Monza 110/pg
>>>
>>>_
>>
>>