<VV> batteries/shorting?

Charles Lee at Proper Pro Per chaz at ProperProPer.com
Wed Sep 13 01:39:45 EDT 2006


Does the battery and car run OK for any length of time ?

1) Disconnect battery

2) Volt/Ohm meter from (+) to chassis should be "open" (infinite resistance)

     (a) any resistance means something is "connected" and would use juice 
if connected to battery.

(3) Follow wiring diagram to see what is connected and where.

A wire may be grounded, touching the chassis through a worn or stripped 
insulation.

Disconnecting connectors and re-check to see if the "short" (low resistance 
reading") is still there.

If it is, the problem is between wheat you disconnected and the battery.

If not, keep going.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Oxford" <seoxford at att.net>
To: <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 10:15 PM
Subject: <VV> batteries/shorting?


> Working on a 63 vert. A month ago brand new 51R battery from Wal-Mart. 
> Dead in two days. Last evening got a replacement (same battery code etc). 
> Installed last night, today at 5PM dead dead dead. Only lights that are 
> in-operable are the brake lights. Should I suspect the switch? Or????
> How does one track this down, Have already checked the glove box light, 
> lighter, high beam switch, has new cables etc.
> ==============
> Ed - A common problem with EMs is that the wire in the driver's side 
> heater hose shorts out against the starter hot terminal, draining the 
> battery.  If that is happening with your car, you can get a rubber sleeve 
> from Clark's (and maybe others) that will insulate the hose wire from the 
> starter terminal.
>
> Steve Oxford/'63 conv
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