Fw: <VV> Exhaust temp... (was push rod tubes)

[Andy Clark]

CORRECTION- I hit the "send" button prematurely.

I should have said "it's better to shut the engine down, then set the
lifters how ever many turns down you wish (1/4? 1/2?). THEN walk away for 10
minutes or so to allow the lifters to bleed down."
Andy Clark
1966 140/4 Monza Sedan
1966 140/4 Yenko Clone
1966 180/4 Cord 8/10 #60
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andy Clark" <slowboat at mindspring.com>
To: "Virtual Vairs" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: <VV> Exhaust temp... (was push rod tubes)


> Re the low exhaust temp; check the carb synchronization. Sounds like the
> pass side carb is not pulling as hard as the driver's side. Either that or
> the idle mixture screws need adjusting. It's not the valves (assuming that
> you have them adjusted correctly).
>
> BTW, when adjusting the valves with the engine running, the reason the
> engine slows down and runs rough for a few seconds, is that the "1/4 turn
> down" from zero lash keeps the valve open for a while until the lifter
> bleeds down. It's better to set all valves at zero lash, then shut the
> engine off and walk away for 10 minutes or so. Then restart the engine and
it
> should run normally. In extreme circumstances (like a severely milled
head)
> keeping the valve open can result in "smiley faces" in the piston tops.
> Andy Clark
> 1966 140/4 Monza Sedan
> 1966 140/4 Yenko Clone
> 1966 180/4 Cord 8/10 #60
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Cash Case" <cash.case at sbcglobal.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 12:51 PM
> Subject: Re: <VV> Exhaust temp... (was push rod tubes)
>
>
> > Now that I've got the push rod tubes in and everything back together
> > I've started the car and it runs a bit rough.
> > A couple of things I noticed. First, the temperature at the exhaust
> > pipe is different. I don't know how much, but I can feel the
> > difference with my hand. Adjusting valves is still a bit of voodoo to
> > me. Here's what I did:
> >
> > 1- I counted the number of turns required to remove the rocker arm
> > nut on each cylinder. I know it's not perfect, but at least that put
> > me in the ball park when putting things back together. This works ok.
> > The only time there is troubler is if a stud turns.
> >
> > 2- Tested each lifter to make sure there was no 'lifting' off the
> > valve stem when the tension is off the rocker.
> >
> > 3- I've got two valve covers that I use for adjusting the valves when
> > running. There is a raised portion that runs the length of the valve
> > cover.
> > I cut the portion out. The entire length. This allows me to run the
> > engine and listen and see the rockers move while adjusting them. No
> > muss, no fuss!
> >
> > 4- Start the engine. Now I can back off each rocker until they rattle
> > and then tighten them down until it just stops. Then a quarter turn
> > farther. I noticed that if I turn the valves just a bit too tight,
> > then engine slows down... or speeds up, I can't remember. I guess
> > that would be because of compression loss.
> >
> > Here's what's interesting. The temperature of the exhaust on the
> > passenger side is cooler than the driver's side. I don't know how
> > much, but I can feel it with my hand at the exhaust pipe. This tells
> > me I've got either valves tightened to the point of staying open or
> > spark plugs not working... just on that side.... yeah right!   ;op
> >
> > I'll go out and loosen those valves on that side just a bit in a
> > little while. I've been at this for a while.
> >
> > Anyone have any other ideas why the temp. might be different on each
> > side?
> > -Cash