<VV> Exhaust temp... (was push rod tubes)

[Andy Clark]

Re the low exhaust temp; check the carb synchronization. Sounds like the
pass side carb is not pulling as hard as the driver's side. Either that or
the idle mixture screws need adjusting. It's not the valves (assuming that
you have them adjusted correctly).

BTW, when adjusting the valves with the engine running, the reason the
engine slows down and runs rough for a few seconds, is that the "1/4 turn
down" from zero lash keeps the valve open for a while until the lifter
bleeds down. It's better to set all valves at zero lash, then shut the
engine off and walk away for 10 minutes or so. The restart the engine and it
should run normally. In extreme circumstances (like a severely milled head)
keeping the valve open can result in "smiley faces" in the piston tops.
Andy Clark
1966 140/4 Monza Sedan
1966 140/4 Yenko Clone
1966 180/4 Cord 8/10 #60
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cash Case" <cash.case at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2006 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: <VV> Exhaust temp... (was push rod tubes)


> Now that I've got the push rod tubes in and everything back together
> I've started the car and it runs a bit rough.
> A couple of things I noticed. First, the temperature at the exhaust
> pipe is different. I don't know how much, but I can feel the
> difference with my hand. Adjusting valves is still a bit of voodoo to
> me. Here's what I did:
>
> 1- I counted the number of turns required to remove the rocker arm
> nut on each cylinder. I know it's not perfect, but at least that put
> me in the ball park when putting things back together. This works ok.
> The only time there is troubler is if a stud turns.
>
> 2- Tested each lifter to make sure there was no 'lifting' off the
> valve stem when the tension is off the rocker.
>
> 3- I've got two valve covers that I use for adjusting the valves when
> running. There is a raised portion that runs the length of the valve
> cover.
> I cut the portion out. The entire length. This allows me to run the
> engine and listen and see the rockers move while adjusting them. No
> muss, no fuss!
>
> 4- Start the engine. Now I can back off each rocker until they rattle
> and then tighten them down until it just stops. Then a quarter turn
> farther. I noticed that if I turn the valves just a bit too tight,
> then engine slows down... or speeds up, I can't remember. I guess
> that would be because of compression loss.
>
> Here's what's interesting. The temperature of the exhaust on the
> passenger side is cooler than the driver's side. I don't know how
> much, but I can feel it with my hand at the exhaust pipe. This tells
> me I've got either valves tightened to the point of staying open or
> spark plugs not working... just on that side.... yeah right!   ;op
>
> I'll go out and loosen those valves on that side just a bit in a
> little while. I've been at this for a while.
>
> Anyone have any other ideas why the temp. might be different on each
> side?
> -Cash