<VV> EZ outs

[Spence Shepard]

Andy,

To remove a bolt that has broken off flush or slightly recessed by the 
welding-on-a-nut method you should first place a flat washer the same size 
as the bolt over the stub. Hold it in place and weld to the bolt to build up 
weld so that you can apply more weld. The object is to not weld the bolt 
stub to the surrounding metal while  you gain some length on the bolt so you 
can weld on the nut. It is OK to weld to the washer and that actually gives 
more surface to weld the nut to.

The method works especially well with steel bolts broken in aluminum. I 
think that is becasue the heat causes the aluminum to expand faster than the 
steel and the current flowing through the oxidation between the aluminum and 
the bolt breaks up the oxidation. Sometime you can just put a spot of weld 
on the bolt stub (like a valve cover or pan bolt) and you can remove it by 
hand (after it cools).

Spence Shepard
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andy Clark" <slowboat at mindspring.com>
To: "VV" <virtualvairs at corvair.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: <VV> EZ outs


> Tony, how do you do that if the bolt is broken off flush or recessed. Can
> you still weld to it?
> Andy Clark
> 1966 140/4 Monza Sedan
> 1966 140/4 Yenko Clone
> 1966 180/4 Cord 8/10 #60
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Tony Underwood" <tonyu at roava.net>
> To: <virtualvairs at skiblack.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 3:35 PM
> Subject: Re: <VV> EZ outs
>
>> Ever since I learned the trick of welding a nut onto the broken bolt
>> shank, I've not bothered with EZ outs ever again.    I currently
>> still own a couple, but they're tarnished from disuse.
>>
>> tony..
>
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