<VV> Re: steel rings

[DJTCZ at comcast.net]

Steel piston rings are pretty rare. A swedish (?) company Deves makes some that can hold up well (Volvo used them in engines that are notorious for lasting 300 kmiles).
Stainless steel compression rings are only suitable for particular types of racing.

References to "chrome moly" rings are almost certainly confused about what the "moly" is in molybdenum faced rings.

If you are looking at plain iron rings, I would not bother.  Modern Moly faced (top) rings do everything better, and last longer too.  Good cylinder finish and excellent cylinder cleaning prep make break-in concerns pretty non-existent.  Some folks are scared of seating chrome rings, but a non-wimpy break-in using very a dozen or 2 short bursts of heavy throttle while driving soon after start up is kind, gentle, and effective.

I often check piston-to-valve clearance, spring retainer-to-seal clearance, coil bind clearance, and actual cam-timing events (degreeing the cam).  All can be checked with a minimal trial assembly and less than $50 worth of tools.  Details of the procedures are all over the internet for those who wish to learn how.


--
Dan Timberlake

-------------- Original message -------------- 
> 
> ------------------------------ 
> 
> Message: 11 
> Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 21:48:02 -0500 
> From: 
> Subject: Engine Planning Stage 
> To: virtualvairs at corvair.org 
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 
> 
> Thanks to all who responded to my question about the 304 GM cam. I have a few 
> more questions and would appreciate any advice. 
> I am using a set of the TRW Forged Pistons that are .060 over bore. Is it ok?to 
> use steel rings? 
> The 140 heads I will be using has had the gasket surface milled? flat, about 
> .070. I plan on using the copper head gaskets that are standard. Will I have any 
> valve clearance?problems using a camshaft?with .440 lift? ISKY?270. Is there a 
> problem with using standard length?push rods? Anything else I should check? 
> Thanks 
> 
> Phil 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------ 
> 
> Message: 12 
> Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 21:19:52 -0600 
> From: "Roger Gault" 
> Subject: Re: Car haulers 
> To: "Mel Herwald" , 
> Message-ID: <009901c6fe2d$c3572710$6400a8c0 at GaultComputer> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" 
> 
> Check out http://transportreviews.com/ 
> 
> If you look down the reviews for AutoZipper until you find one by "Roger" 
> (7/27/06), that would be me and my move of an Avenger from California to 
> Texas. 
> 
> Keep in mind that most of these companies are just brokers, and that they 
> only have limited control of the independant truckers that do the actual 
> moves. 
> 
> Roger 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mel Herwald" 
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 6:45 PM 
> Subject: Car haulers 
> 
> 
> > Greetings people of Corvairdam: 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > I continue to lurk and glean useful information at times. Hopefully the 
> day 
> > will come when I can also give useful information. 
> > 
> > I know the subject of car haulers has come up before but I'm faced with 
> > moving a Rampside from Arizona to Virginia. I've got quotes from various 
> > companies I found online but I'm a little uncomfortable since I know 
> nothing 
> > about them. Of course they all tout how great they are. So here are some 
> > questions in no particular order: 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 1) What's been your experience with specific car haulers? Would you 
> > recommend them? Are there any VV's who haul? 
> > 
> > 2) Did you go open or enclosed? There about a $400 difference. 
> > 
> > 3) Are there one or two companies that stand out? 
> > 
> > 4) What should the price be? I've got about 20 quotes ranging from 
> > $950 to $1500. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Mel Herwald 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________ 
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