<VV> camshafts, and lifters

[idoxlr8 at earthlink.net]

 The LIFTER fails first, not the camshaft. And no, camshafts do not work
harden.
Flat tappet camshafts, in most cases, are cast from proferal iron, and flame
hardened,
then parco lubrite treated. If it were the camshaft that failed, then
Schubeck lifters
would not work. But the composite ceramic foot on a Schubeck is so hard it
won't
break down and won't stick to the camshaft. Now, we also coat camshafts and
lifters,
and we sometimes coat camshafts when used with Schubeck lifters, as well as
steel
billet cores used for flat tappet camshafts. We are now also using tool
steel lifters
as well.

The flat tappet camshaft does burnish and mate to a cast iron lifter, they
actually
seat to each other. That is why you don't want to swap lifters, or put new
lifters
on an old cam, or old lifters on a new cam. However, with the new composite
or steel
lifters, that is not the case.

The truth is, with the exception of some soft cams in the eighties, it has
always been a
lifter problem. And in the very recent past, lifters were a severe problem,
when
everyone but Stanedyne went out of business. However, Johnson HyLift tappets
are
once again being made, and Eaton is also making tappets. Stanedyne is junk.

Finally, the EPA recently forced the removal of zinc and phosphorous from
motor oil,
with the exception of diesel oils. So now the major high pressure anti scuff
additives
are no longer found in motor oils for gasoline engines. If you are breaking
in a new
camshaft and lifters, I suggest 15W-40 Shell Rotella. It does still have
ZDDP in it,
and will help with break in. A can of GM EOS won't hurt either.

Regards,
Alan
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