<VV> taking it all off...suggestions on paint removal techniques

[Frank DuVal]

Ron Guy wrote:

>
>5) The car must be primed immediatley after ( i hear and that makes sense
>too me), how long can it sit in just primer while I get all the other stuff
>fixed assembled?
>
>No it doesn't. I hope you intend to store it and work on it mostly indoors.
>The Def Stinger sat for two years in some bare metal after blasting. Good
>clean dry shop and it did not rust. Your primer (should be a catalyzed) may
>have a short life requirement between applications.
>
>  
>

Hold on there. This is disaster advise for some areas.

It depends on where you live. Here in humid Virginia you had better 
prime bare metal within a few hours of making it bare in the summertime 
even indoors. The high humidity starts the rust process immeadiately. 
You could wait a day, but you will need to sand it before priming!

I personally do not like the phosphoric metal etchers for steel. I have 
had them start rusting. I like PPG's DP series of epoxy primers. They 
are self etching, so you prime directly on bare metal. You can (and 
should) work body fillers over the DP primer. It helps adhesion and 
prevents rust from forming under the filler. You west coast guys just be 
quiet now...

DP primer can be kept in the refigerator to help extend the life between 
uses, but probably not more than a week. Just mix the ammount you need 
with one of those new fangled (20 years ago) calibrated measuring sticks 
and a pint can with the top ring removed.

You use the catalysed high build primer after the epoxy primer and body 
work.

Frank DuVal