<VV> Wheel Bearing greasing

[Chuck Kubin]

Hey Ryan,
  Good call. This procedure is cheap and easy and reliable. You can do one side in about the time it took me to write this.
  You need wheel bearing grease, two inner seals, solvent and two new cotter keys, all very common and available. On inspection, you may need to replace the bearings. If they aren't showing signs of problems, and with the low miles you mention, the chances are you won't need them.
  Take off the front wheels. You can leave them on but it makes everything harder to handle. Use a channel locks, screwdriver etc. to pry and rock the grease cap off.  Be careful on the driver's side as it has the driver for your speedo cable. Remove the cotter key, washer and nut. Pull the brake drum off. The bearings come with it.
  While this is off, inspect everything related to the brakes. You can reassemble it and do the brakes later, but now is the perfect time to look.
  The outer bearing falls right off. Remove the inner seal and discard (they are cheap and available everywhere, and you won't be able to tell if the rubber is still sealing against the spindle.) 
  Clean everything, including as much of the grease as you can get out of the bearings. If you use compressed air to blow out the bearings, DO NOT SPIN them with the air. this will damage them. Make sure it is dry, to keep from diluting the grease. 
  Inspect the bearings, spindle and races for galling, flat spots or blueing from running dry. Replace as needed. Race damage is rarer, but you can press damaged races out of the drum by tapping them out a little at a time from the opposite side. New ones should be pressed in to avoid deforming the softer cast iron drum.
  Refill the bearings by using a grease cup or the old fashioned (cheap) way. Put a ball of grease in your palm and scrape through it with the wider side of the bearing. This forces grease between the rollers. Do this until clean grease comes out the other side all the way around. Place the inner bearing and install the new seal by tapping in a little at a time with a hammer or a seal tool. The idea is to get it in place without denting or deforming it.
  Smear a thin layer or grease on the spindle. There's no need to fill the cavity. You don't need grease on the brakes.
  Reinstall the brake drum, bearing, washer and nut. Rock and rotate the drum as you tighten the nut ONLY JUST SNUG to seat and take the play out of the bearings. Then back off enough to get the cotter pin in.  A hair too loose is good; a hair too tight wears the bearings out right now.
  Put the grease cap and wheel back on and adjust the brakes if needed, as long as you are there. Have a beer.
   
   
  Chuck Kubin
   
  
Ryan Verthein <daretocorvair at yahoo.com> wrote:
  Every book I have touches the subject, but is short
and vague and leaves me with some questions. All of
my books are more focuesed on the rear of cars and not
so much the front.

		
---------------------------------
Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone  calls to 30+ countries for just 2¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.