<VV> Lower windshield panel replacement

[Cash Case]

I've replaced this panel before. If you can get a donar dash I'd use  
that. Lot's of work though. It's worth it. Doing it wrong will just  
start leaks and rust again.  If you're replacing body panels,  
remember to use tack welds. Just keep tacking, about an inch apart  
once you get things into place, until all your tack welds meet. If  
your a fan of Overhalin, you've seen them do this. You have to grind  
off all the weld beads. Don't for get, if you replace the lower  
windshield rale, you need to get the studs that hold the clips for  
the trim. Don't for get to put these on before you put the windshield  
in. Don't ask me how I know this.  ;op
Measure the distance from top to bottom at center and on both sides.  
You need to make sure when you replace these pieces that the  
measurements don't change.
-Cash
On Jun 29, 2006, at 2:38 PM, Sethracer at aol.com wrote:

>
> In a message dated 6/29/2006 11:50:00 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> jryall at juno.com writes:
>
> Even  though the replacement panel is wider to
> cover rust in that area, it won't  cover in this instance.  Is it
> reasonable to replace the top of the  dash?  I have a car that I'm  
> parting
> out from which I could grab the  top.  I was thinking I could join the
> dash top under the pad so the  seam would not be visible once the  
> pad is
> in place.
>
> This car is not  going to be a show car.  Just fix it up and drive.
>
> Does anyone  have any comments or ideas about this repair?
>
> John  Ryall
>
>
>
> John - I am going through a similar repair (less than yours) on my  
> 65 Corsa
> race car. It has some rust holes on the dash side of the window  
> mount. The
> only  repair panel I had was an original GM outer panel. It didn't  
> have the
> extended  inner portion that the Clarks panel has - I installed  
> that one on a
> Convertible  with the same problem a few years ago. Instead of  
> replacing the panel
> on this  current car, I just added more "Meat" to the leftover  
> structure. I
> know that  yours is likely too far gone for that - I've seen lots  
> of eastern
> cars over the  years. All I can suggest is that you make sure that  
> the area
> outside the  windshield seal has no path through to the inside  
> floor. The very
> bottom of that  channel will drain into the car if perforated. As  
> soon as you move
> up the panel  toward the front, the drainage is into the front cowl  
> area and
> not of much  concern. Also you want to make sure that drains, in  
> approximately
> the same  position as the originals, are located at each outer  
> lower corner.
> I am sure  there are several good coating to "slather" on before  
> painting, but
> aside from  POR15, I don't know any. - Seth
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