<VV> RE: Carb Choices - Long

[grant young]

<<but I am not sure if I should just try and find the ones
that originally would have been on the car (65 140 4sp) or find some that
would offer the best performance. It would seem that for primaries it is
fairly 
straight forward. I think Iwant 65 or later non smog carbs. From the tech
guide, 
it seems that for late carbs the only differences were smog or not-smog. 
Is that correct?>>

No. In 1966 and later, you will find an additional idle air bleed in the
throat of the
carbs. You can see it from the bottom. It is a small hole drilled just
above the location of the mixture needle. It ensures that the carb is
leaner than 
the 1965 versions. Its presence can also usually be identified by a small
circle 
punched on the outside of the throat just about the needle (but not always).
 
<<The real question comes with the secondaries. According to the tech guide,
the secondaries changed in mid 65 to add a lockout feature that would
prevent the secondaries from coming in until the engine is warm. One other
secondary choice was the 68-69 with the "fixed fuel feed" feature.>>

You are correct here. It was late 1965 when someone decided owners were
too dumb to wait until the engine was warm to give it WOT. So they put some 
cantankerous lockouts on the secondary carbs. They had to add springs on
the 
links to have some slack to keep the still dumb owners from bending the
rods.
 
<<Am I correct in my statement that late carbs are either smog or not, or is
that too simple? Anyone have any feedback as to which secondaries I should
look for? I currently have the early 65 style, and I think changing the
secondaries would mean changing the linkage as well. Can someone confirm
this?>>

Too simple...see above. You will have to change your cross shaft and carb
swivels to use the later linkage. My personal opinion is that the 1965 carb
is best all around. The problem you will have will be finding carbs that are
actually for a 140, as all the primaries look alike. The 140's have the
largest
idle emulsion tubes. While this is not a killer issue, you will want to at
least
remove the venturi clusters to make sure the tubes on the two carbs you
select
are the same size, or you will not be happy with your idle. 

I doubt that you will find any secondaries with the fixed fuel feature, as
they are 
pretty rare. The only way to identify them is by a hole in the bottom cut
out where 
the mixture needle hole is on a primary carb (and removing the venturi
cluster to 
check that it has an idle tube. You can not be sure it is there just by the
hole
in the base. I have found several that were rebuilt incorrectly)

Hope this helps, but feel free to drop me a note if you need more.

The Carbmeister

Grant Young
Wolf Enterprises