<VV> Need an interpreter, please

[JVHRoberts at aol.com]

One note, and that's on headlight connectors. I have melted a BUNCH,  even 
with standard wattage bulbs. 
The plug you want is sold through NAPA, and it's actually not for  
headlights! You want their heavy duty turn signal flasher socket. It's a flat  plug, has 
the wires coming off the sides, and is rated for some serious current!  Even 
the leads are heavy. These are for semis, and they can EASILY have more  amps 
in turn signal load than ANY headlight. OR Ford T birds with the wall to  wall 
taillights, etc. 
I don't remember the number, but it's in their Echlin parts book. I have  
NEVER melted one of these, even with 100/145 H4 bulbs. 
 
In a message dated 1/23/2006 12:44:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
mmcguire at hiwaay.net writes:

Humm,

Many good points...  On voltage, I read on a website  the bulb design voltage 
is
13.5 volts.  So, the best thing to do is  see where you are with the bulb
voltage.  If you are down 12-12.5  volts, you are only getting about 50% the
output intended.

As you  get older, you need more light to see the same things.  But as  Seth
pointed out, it needs to be on the road and not in the eyes of  oncoming 
traffic.
E-code lights are sharp cuttoff lense design were the USA  spec is a defuse
round pattern which probably made sense with the big old  boats in the 50's.  

I'm running 100/130's on my daily driver (old  300E) and it is amazing with
relays and big wiring.  I measured 8  times the light on the road as the stock
units.  You must have a glass  lense and reflector to handle more wattage and
even the H-4 plug must be  better than plastic ones.  I think standard bulbs 
are
still a huge  difference- wiring and relays would make a big difference on  a
corvair.  Seems like the internal reg GM alternators put out a  higher 
voltage...  


Michael