<VV> need to

[Chuck Kubin]

Hey gang,
Orange Crush is out of group red after weeks of
finding time to work and correcting all the problems.
I set out to find out why it started so hard and
overheated so badly at high speeds. Here's what I
learned as I disassembled:
1) Engine shroud seal wasn't pressed over the lip on
the shroud.
2) One smog carb, one untagged regular of unknown
vintage. The engine originally had AIR system.
3) No gaskets between the air cleaner and manifold or
maniford and carbs.
4) All four carbs leaked at the base gaskets.
5) Secondaries locked out by bending the lockout tabs;
1/2 inch of cinder cooked inside the secondaries.
Probably never used at all.
6) Solid gaskets placed under the secondaries didn't
much matter, as there were holes ripped in them. Looks
like someone changed their minds and poked the holes
without removing the carb and changing the gaskets
back, then abandoned the idea to save further work.
7) Fuel filters looked like they had never been
replaced. Considerable sediment in the primary bowls.
8) Ancient choke pull-offs still work fine! That's one
bright spot.
7) Every rubber hose was hard as a rock and leaked.
8) PCV hole blocked.  
9) AIR air cleaner base has a large tube in the bottom
that allows a lot of air to bypass the filter. Also,
AIR crankcase vent tube doesn't fit up to air cleaner
anyways.
10) 75% of oil cooler covered by dead leaves. There
were actually very few leaves on the heads, because...
11)  The 140 head, with its larger ports, actually has
very little open space between the fins. What is
SUPPOSED to be there was about 90% flashed over,
requiring drilling, poking and sawing (MANY thanks to
the guys who sent me pictures of the cleaned up
heads.) You know the open spaces above the spark
plugs? Five of the six were completely sealed.
12) Extra hole in the shroud in the right rear corner
for the AIR never blocked.
13) Every fastener on the top of the engine was no
tighter than snug.
14) I'd learned from Steve Goodman that the owner
never put a dime into the car unless it meant it
didn't run.
15) All heater hoses shot (and you've read the rest on
that one). Hole in the plastic duct.
16) 12-year-old battery still working for now. 
17) The terminals are in the center of the battery, so
the ground cable is stretched to its absolute limit.
This does keep the battery from flopping around, as
the clamp is missing.
18) Plastic tray under the battery is shredded, and
why it is still there, considering its condition, is a
mystery.
I'm surprised it ran as well as it did, all things
considered, and with the broken/loose/corroded
original battery cable clamps, it is a miracle it
cranked and charged at all. I upgraded the alternator
to 65 amps (thanks to the tip of using the Chevelle
w/air 65 amp alternator). Hoses are on order. Made
plates to block the secondaries' ports off for now. 
Upped the jets to 55 on Steve's recommendation for a
140/PG at Denver's altitude.
For some reason, in early attempts to start it, it ran
on only three cylinders. Only when I got someone to
stand in the back and help me listen for WHICH three
did the other three fire off.
So it seems it will be THAT kind off car! But it
RUNS!!!!
Still to do: pull a compression check and see which
cyinder's rings are giving me some considerable
blowby, and see if some Marvel Mystery Oil can unstick
and help them seal up. This car is a driver that badly
needs bodywork, so there has to be a mix of form and
function. Also, I need to determine which distributor
curve I have and experiment with the timing, which I
haven't checked yet, then pound the hell out of it on
the road to see how much cooler it runs. My neighbor's
offered me his hand-held temp gauge, so I should be
able to check it out without a gauge in the dash.
Thanks to all in VV who either contributed directly to
the project or reenforced what I already knew.

Chuck Kubin

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