<VV> Rust Devils

[Duane, Jim (US SSA)]

Hi Arjay.

	I've enrolled in an Autobody course at my local Technical High
School.  Highly recommended, BTW, if you have one in your area...
Anyway, I'm working on my '83 Grand Prix as a training tool to the
Corvair...  IMHO, long-term fixes for perforated metal is...metal!  
	My previous "gorilla hair" fiberglass patch didn't work well The
driver's door had rusted lower door exterior metal and rusted inner door
frame to the point I had to cut the lower 2-3" off.  With the
instructor's direction I made patch panels for both the inner and outer
sheetmetal.  The edge fold is best started on a sheetmetal brake
(break?) and then hammered into place before welding.  I chose to use
adhesive to take care of the long seam of the skin but you could weld,
especially of the replacement patch is small.  A cut-off wheel makes
short work of removing bad door skin.  
	If you put a lot of time in to the door previously this can save
your previous work and prevent future work.

 

Jim Duane
'66 180 Corsa CVT
Colonial Corvairs
CORSA

   

-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of Arjay Morgan
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 12:33 AM
To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
Subject: RE: <VV> Rust Devils

I seek the group's knowlege in a vexing rust problem.
   
  A year and a half ago I took the 64 Monza down to bare metal via media
blasting and Vaun Hamlin and I repaired every dent, ding and rust spot
before repainting the car.
   
  Yesterday I discovered rust pustules pushing out the paint in two
small spots on the bottom, front corners of both doors. As I recall,
this is an area where the door skin metal folds around the door's
subframe. It's right IN the corner, not an inch or two away, so there's
no practical way to get behind the rust. I suspect that the rust is
originating between the subframe and the skin where everything is welded
shut.
   
  One Corvair friend opined the only solution is to get two new doors or
re-skin the old ones or get replacement patch panels. That seemed a bit
extreme since the spots are less than 1/2" in diameter.
   
  Does it seem reasonable to grind into the affected area until I hit
good metal and then use the POR-15 system to stabilize the area that's
rusting behind the doorskin, then use the new epoxy-based body filler to
bring the surface back up ?  My preference would be to use body metal
and epoxy or weld on the backside of the panel, but I don't think that's
possible because of the extreme corner location.
   
  Has anyone dealt with this problem before? And what is the solution?
   
  Thanks in advance,
  Arjay Morgan
  64 Monza Convert.

		
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