<VV> Questions about Packard electrical connectors

[Frank DuVal]

Ken,

 I typed in 30-586 in Google and came up with a picture (OK, a drawing....)

http://www.westlake-electronic.com/cgi-bin/store.php?search=yes&detail=yes&item_no=IDE-30-586

This die crimps both the wire and the insulation at the same time.

Frank DuVal

Kent Sullivan wrote:

>Frank, thanks! 
>
>Could you possibly send a picture of the 30-586 die? The Stanley site does
>not have a picture.
>
>--Kent
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Frank DuVal [mailto:corvairduval at cox.net] 
>Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2006 5:54 AM
>To: Kent Sullivan
>Cc: virtualvairs at corvair.org; fastvair at yahoogroups.com;
>corvanatics at corvair.org
>Subject: Re: <VV> Questions about Packard electrical connectors
>
>I use the Ideal "Crimpmaster" series of crimpers for many terminals. The
>interchangeable dies make it useful on most terminals I have run into. 
>You can buy the frame with coax dies for RG-59/ RG-6 at Home Depot. The
>other dies are available from many electronic supply houses ( Allied,
>Newark, Mouser, Digi-key, etc.) and Jensen tools, which is now Stanley
>Supply Services.
>
>
>The die you need for these terminals referenced below is :
>Ideal   30-586,  Open Barrel Non Insulated 22 - 12 AWG.
>
>see:
>
>http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/product-detail.aspx?pn=409-462
>
>
>The "Crimpmaster" frame is;
>Ideal  30-506
>aka Jensen p/n 600-700
>
>http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/product-group.aspx?id=8767
>
>You can also buy the frame with other dies already installed, such as the
>insulated terminal die, as p/n 30-500.
>
>BTW, The Ideal 30-579 die is the best crimp for those standard insulated
>terminals, found in every hardware store, that I have ever found. The
>terminals do not pull off the wire after crimping with this tool.
>
>While this Ideal series is slightly above homeowner cheap, it  is a great
>tool, and beats the alternative of crimping the "Molex" open barrel terminal
>twice, once for the wire and once for the insulation prongs that you can do
>with the $25 Molex brand hand crimper. The frame alone is about $45 and the
>dies run $25. Shop around.
>
>Frank DuVal
>
>Kent Sullivan wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Hi,
>>
>>Several questions... For reference, see the drawings in Clark's main 
>>catalog, page 100.
>>
>>Most of the connectors on this page are what I call "Packard Series 
>>56". I believe that is the industry standard term. By this I mean the
>>    
>>
>"female"
>  
>
>>metal connector C3295, the "male" metal connector C3299 and all of the 
>>housings that they fit in.
>>
>>First question: If you own a crimper that you think does a really good 
>>job of crimping these connectors onto wires, please let me know. I know 
>>there are professional ratcheting crimpers for these but they are big 
>>bucks--$300 or more. I have been looking for a hobbyist-quality tool.
>>
>>The good news is I finally found a crimper today in my area and one 
>>test crimp went well. I was also happy with the price ($15) but would 
>>like to know more about what other people are using. I don't have the 
>>part number in front of me right now but I can get it.
>>
>>At the bottom of page 100, there is a different kind of connector: 
>>C3964 plus the housings (C8383/C8384). These are used, for example, to 
>>connect either end of a late model main body harness to the engine 
>>compartment harness and the fuse block harness.
>>
>>Second question: What is the official name for these connectors? One 
>>person in the industry believes they are called "Twin Lock" connectors 
>>and that the name usually incorporates the size of connector, e.g., "Twin
>>    
>>
>Lock 12-way"
>  
>
>>for a 12-pin connector, like the aforementioned LM main body harness 
>>connectors.
>>
>>Third question: Will the same crimper that works for Series 56 also 
>>work for Twin Lock? The answer appears to be "Yes" but I'm interested 
>>in any specific experience you-all have.
>>
>>Fourth question: Do you have a source for the release tool for the Twin 
>>Lock terminals? Unlike the Series 56, which can be released with a 
>>small flat-blade screwdriver, the Twin Lock uses two very small tangs, 
>>one on each side. Ray Sedman told me that what appears to be needed is 
>>a long, very thin pair of tweezers...
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>--Kent
>>
>>
>>    
>>
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