<VV> Re: '64 flywheel, clutch kit in '63 Monza Spyder

[Frank DuVal]

Two things have happened to other people over the years with the same 
result you have:

1. The clutch disk is installed backwards. Flywheel side must face the 
flywheel.

2, The clutch disk is one of those with the rivets holding the center 
hub in place. The OEM disk is a welded hub and is the only one to work 
in all applications. On some engines the rivets hit the flywheel bolts.

Check for both. Yes, I know you have to dissassemble to check. Are we 
having fun yet?

Frank DuVal

Bill Meglen wrote:

> Assembled and installed the 64 and later recessed flywheel/clutch 
> acquired as a complete kit from Corvair Underground into my 1963 Monza 
> Spyder. The entire clutch assembly is new, flywheel, disk, pressure 
> plate and throwout bearing, all part of the "kit". The only reused 
> parts that would seem to  affect geometry are the stock ball stud and 
> clutch fork.
>
> It seems that I cannot get the clutch to fully disengage when 
> depressing the clutch.
>
> The shift works fine when the engine  is not running but he gear shift 
> cannot be moved into or out of gear with engine running, and  although 
> the clutch pedal in full travel fails to disengage completely. Clutch 
> pedal play is less than the recommended 3/4"
>
> I attempted to adjust the clutch in accordance with the manual without 
> real effect.  I will try again tomorrow. I suspect that if I pull 
> tension on clutch pull rod sufficient to produce full disengagement it 
> will cause the throwout bearing to be in contact with the pressure 
> plate fingers, meaning that it would be spinning constantly? 
> ...presumably undesirable?
>
> While the manual specifies the clutch rod goes in the upper hole in 
> the shaft assembly lever, and the return spring in the lower, I wonder 
> if reversing this arrangement would affect the geometry enough to 
> cause full clutch disengagement? I will experiment tomorrow.
>
> I'm frustrated but would welcome ideas.
>
> Bill
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