<VV> One Small Step, Part II

[Kevin Spargur]

One alternative regarding the head nuts is to use a Dremel tool or a 
drill with a cutting head and cut the sides of the nuts almost down to 
the threads then use a chisel to break through the remaining thin 
metal.  This will result in the nuts actually being removed from the 
studs in pieces and should protect both the studs and threads.

Another alternative is to use the same tools to groove or flatten the 
sides of the nuts then use vice-grips, etc. on the new face flats to 
spin the nuts off.  The increased flat surface faces will give the grips 
or what-other gripping tools used added surface area to bite into.  If 
everything works ideally (YEAH, RIGHT!!!!), you should be able to back 
the nuts off without stripping the threads or shearing/removing the studs.

Using breaking lubes such as that produced by loc-tite should aid as well.

Kevin

N. Joseph Potts wrote:

>Good pix. From outside, your engine looks to have been used reasonably, and
>to be in reasonable shape. Transmission . . . well, you've got the right
>view in mind. You could probably keep using it if you chose to.
>     Do not cut your head nuts off. Do all you can to unscrew them from
>their studs (apply multiple Vise-Grips to studs when turning nuts, use PC
>Blaster+time liberally). You will probably fail in a few instances and the
>stud will unscrew from the crankcase (this is what you're trying to avoid).
>IF the stud threads that screwed into the crankcase did not bring out a lot
>of aluminum with them, clean both them and their holes well and screw the
>studs back into the block. The threads here are a slight interference fit -
>check for insertion torque per the instructions in the Shop Manual (study
>these closely). If you get anything like the specified torque, you're good
>to go. If you don't, you will have to purchase oversize-thread studs from
>the vendors (and you would have done just as well to cut the nuts off, but
>that still is hardly necessary).
>     If, on the other hand, your stud brings out a lot of aluminum with it,
>you will have to drill out the hole and insert a new steel thread. That's a
>whole project in its own right, and it is NOT covered in the Shop Manual. It
>IS covered well in books such as Bob Helt's Classic Corvair
>(bobhelt at aol.com), and in the Tech Guide. Cross that bridge when you get to
>it.
>
>Joe Potts
>Miami, Florida USA
>1966 Corsa coupe 140hp 4-speed with A/C
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
>[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org]On Behalf Of Jason Morris
>Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 10:24 PM
>To: virtualvairs at corvair.org
>Subject: <VV> One Small Step, Part II
>
>
>Well here's the report on my 2nd Saturdays worth of work...
>
>I'm not sure If I'll be able to save this one, it's pretty rough.
>Click on the link below, I've posted some photos and movies of what I found.
>http://alamocitycorvair.org/Temp/Rebuild.html
>
>Because this is my first rebuild attempt any feedback would be greatly
>appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Jason Morris
>Jmorris at AlamoCityCorvair.org
>
> _______________________________________________
>This message was sent by the VirtualVairs mailing list, all copyrights are the property
>of the writer, please attribute properly. For help, mailto:vv-help at corvair.org
>This list sponsored by the Corvair Society of America, http://www.corvair.org/
>Post messages to: VirtualVairs at corvair.org
>Change your options: http://www.vv.corvair.org/mailman/options/virtualvairs 
> _______________________________________________
>
>  
>