<VV> New Garage - Lighting

Sun Oct 23 20:12:03 EDT 2005

I looked at a lot of different floor paints for my shop and went with...
None of them. The really good stuff that someone else puts down (after
diamond grinding the floor) is a LOT of money. The other systems are OK but
I decided that it wasn't worth it for how I use the space and, actually, was
going to be somewhat of a safety hazard. Most painted floors get slippery
when liquids spill. So, I had some color put in the concrete and have been
very happy. Sure, some oil spots are on the floor but going back to how I
use the space--it's a SHOP not a MUSEUM. :-) A few oil spots add character.
And, the ones that really bug me can be removed with a few different
products successfully.

As for the stall on the end that is separated with a wall, where the show
car is--THAT is the museum. This space got a Race Deck floor. Looks great,
very easy to install, and is trivial to sweep, mop, or vacuum. I was able to
create a pretty intricate pattern for much less money than with paint and I
can change it quickly in the future. Race Deck is also rated to handle oil,
etc. spills.

--Kent
-----Original Message-----
From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org
[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of dcvjrv at comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2005 10:15 AM
To: Rad Davis; 'Virtual Vairs'
Subject: RE: <VV> New Garage - Lighting

Rad,

I plan on covering the floor with an epoxy paint of some sort as soon as it
cures.
The walls will be covered with sheetrock for the first four feet, the
plywood for the next four feet, and finally the rest will again be
sheetrock.  At least that is the current planning.  The walls will be
painted white.

I think that I am going to go with the high-index fluorescent.  The extra
expense will be well worth it.  The only question that remains with the
lights, is how many and where to place them.

Thanks for the input,
Jim V.

At 11:56 PM 10/22/2005 Saturday, Rad Davis wrote:

>I'd add that it's a lot easier to get light on the floor and under the 
>vehicle if you have a more reflective floor.
>
>Fresh concrete has a pretty good albedo.  Unfortunately, if you 
>actually use the garage, the floor will get darker and darker over 
>time.  Consider putting down a white or light grey floor epoxy over the 
>work areas.  Not only will this prevent oil stains, dirt, and tire 
>rubber darkening the floor over time, it will also reflect more light 
>from the surrounding area under the car.  It's never easier to paint a 
>floor than just after it has cured--there will be no soaked-in oil to 
>cause the paint to spall.
>
>Likewise, a coat of white primer on the sheetrock around the cars is 
>very helpful with getting light where you're working.
>
>I agree completely with Kent about getting some high-index 
>fluorescents.  You get a lot of eye fatigue from cool white flouros, 
>and even more from mercury vapor and sodium.  If you're feeling really 
>poor, you can mix soft white and cool white fluorescent tubes in the 
>same fixture.  It looks odd, but throws a more balanced light.  The 
>high-index tubes are my choice, though, and they're not so much more 
>expensive that you'll break the bank on them.
>
>At 08:14 PM 10/22/2005 -0700, Kent Sullivan wrote:
>>It's hard to do better all-around than good quality, modern 
>>fluorescent tubes that have a high Color Rendering Index (low 90s 
>>tends to be pretty true without the premium cost of getting still 
>>closer to 100). Mercury vapor and other kinds of specialty lights have 
>>some supposed advantages but they also have some big downsides, such 
>>as cost, amount of light output variance over the life of the bulb, 
>>and startup time. By output variance I mean that some bulb types start 
>>out really bright but their output curves down for quite some time 
>>before the bulb blows, whereas fluorescents tend to have about the same
output until the die.
>>
>>Be sure you work with someone who knows how to lay out lighting properly.
>>You should have about 100 candles/foot at the floor. You can go 
>>somewhat brighter but you actually can get it too bright, which is 
>>just as bad as too dim. Working with someone who knows their stuff 
>>will also help with fixture placement to help ensure that you minimize 
>>shadows--something you definitely want to avoid.
>>
>>--Kent
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org 
>>[mailto:virtualvairs-bounces at corvair.org] On Behalf Of 
>>dcvjrv at comcast.net
>>Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2005 7:49 PM
>>To: Virtual Vairs
>>Subject: <VV> New Garage - Lighting
>>
>>I am in the process of building a garage to store and work on my vehicles.
>>I will be 50' x 64' with 13' from floor to bottom of trusses and will 
>>be clear span.  I am looking for comments and recommendations as to 
>>the best lighting to install.  I want to keep the lights even with the 
>>bottom of the trusses.  The walls will be drywalled (sheet rocked) and 
>>the ceiling will be left open.
>>
>>Thanks for any and all comments and recommendations.
>>
>>
>>Jim V.
>>1964 Chevrolet Corvair Spyder Convertible 
>>http://www.angelfire.com/mi2/jrvvehicles
>>dcvjrv at comcast.net
>>
>>
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